1975 CJ5 232

I'm new here and to this Jeep so excuse my ignorance. Thanks in advance because I have many questions.

I can only start the Jeep when I pull start it with another vehicle as it will not start but just turns over and over with the key. After starting it will idle and run pretty good, until I put the engine under load at which it will sputter, hesitate and backfire.

So trying to fix this I replaced all the vacuum lines, many were missing. The FSM and what I am seeing in the engine bay don't jive. Do all 1975 models have an EGR valve? I have two ports cast into the intake manifold but look nothing like what is in the FSM, see pic below.

 

Here's what I have done so far, see attached pdf.

 

could be a bad switch not sending 12 volts to the coil while cranking.

 

Man, you might have it.

On another note, check timing.

 

Looks right to me.

There are two markets for Jeeps in 1975, California and Nation-wide (aka 49 states). This is a Nationwide Jeep. The only emissions device are vapor recovery, PCV, spark CTO, Thermostatic air cleaner (TAC), and transmission controlled spark (TCS). No EGR. This info is in a table in the emissions chapter of the 1975 Jeep factory service manual. Look at page 4A-37.

Try hot-wiring the Jeep and see if it starts from cranking with the key switch.

Do you have a cracked exhaust manifold? Looks like it.

 

Sterlclan, you might be on to something. Battery was weak, but would still turn engine over. I charged it all night and day, she just fired right up.

 

Tim, you nailed it. I went out a stuck my head under the hood, cracked exhaust manifold. That explains things. Suggestions in replacing/repairing?

 

You can buy new repops. I suppose they are fine - maybe someone here has some experience with them. You have to fix it - an air leak like that behind the exhaust valve will burn the valves. Remove the intake and exhaust as a unit, and replace as a unit. Wait to tighten the bolts between the manifolds until they are bolted in place.

 

I did a full tune-up, she runs like a champ again. It had a fouled spark plug.

I want to change the fluid in the 3-speed manual transmission and the transfer case. What do you all use and what works best? I put ATF+4 in my NP242 and 42RE for the ZJ, but think that fluid might be a little thin for this old CJ5.

 

After doing some research, I'm going with 80w90 gear oil in both the transmission and t-case.

My next project is to get the fuel gauge wired up and working. Then onto the important electrical items like headlights.

 

Conventional 85W90 GL4 gear oil. Dino oil.

 

This with emphasis on the GL4 part. GL4 compatible (i.e. GL5, etc.) is not good for your transmission. No problems for the transfer case.

 

Good to know, I was reading through the Novak website and noticed they state to use 80w90 GL5, but per the advice here I will look for GL4 only.

Looks like I have the T15 verses the T14 transmission, is that an uncommon combo with the 232? I'll try and verify the numbers on the case tonight, i'm just going by the shifter knob and cane.

 

T-15 was standard behind the V-8 and T-14 was standard behind the I-6. Common upgrade when the T-14 goes bad though as it is a virtual bolt up to the engine and transfer case.

 

Shift knob and stalk doesn't ID well. Check the Jeep PN tag under a top cover bolt, or the numbers cast into the side of the transmission case. 13-07 is T-15, and 13-02 is T-14.

 

Excellent thanks for help. It's a T14 transmission and Dana 20 tcase.

 

I changed the fluid, it was milky from water intrusion over the years. It may have been changed before but I doubt it. When draining the tcase I pulled the fill plug first and fluid gushed out. It had about twice the fluid in it.

I figured the excess was water, but when filling the transmission I had to do it several times to get the fluid up to the fill mark. So I pulled the fill plug in the tcase again and it was overfilled. Therefore fluid is internally leaking between the transmission and tcase. Will having the tcase overfilled hurt anything? This is a woods rig and we might put 1,000 miles a year on it.

 

I am looking for the wiring diagram. The one included in the '74 FSM has different color wires and led me astray around the ECU.

I found this one attached which is accurate, the quality just isn't that good and I cant read the legend.

 

Your source is wrong. 1974 is not the same as 1975. That can't be from the '74 TSM - it looks like the one from the '75 TSM. It may be the Haynes or Chiltons diagram that those manuals copied (with permission?) from Jeep. Whatever, it's wrong for '74. And '74 is different from '75.

'74 FSM? What year are you working on? Do you have the factory manual for your year? Don't buy a Haynes or Chiltons manual - they are rife with errors. Wiring for '72, '73 and '74 is pretty much the same, with the fuses inline (no fuse panel) and no ECU ... points ignition. I hate to keep harping on this, but if you have not, you need to pony up and buy the TSM for your year. TSM reprints are available from all the Jeep retailers. Here's an example - http://www.bjsoffroad.com/1974-Jeep-Factory-Service-Manual_p_1051.html - BJ's will give you a modest discount if you are a member of IFSJA.org or FSJNetwork.com

 

There is no seal between the Borg-Warner 3-speed transmissions and the transfer case. Oil will transfer slowly between the cases through the bearing. If you end up with the transfer case overfilled, that's fine. Make sure you are full to the plug level in the transmission.And don't rely on the transmission to fill the transfer case. Fill transfer case, fill transmission, drive, check transmission level.

Milky oil indicates mixing with water. Water on the surface of the oil makes an emulsion (like mayonnaise) between the water and oil. I suggest that you change the oil at least once more to get all the water out. I would also take the top off of the transmission and inspect for water damage.

Be sure to cover the Jeep if you leave it out in the rain. Water will follow the shift stalk down and get in the transmission.