Swinging pedals

I am installing swinging pedals from a later wrangler with the integral brake light switch. I need a blank slate, so I removed the tilt steering thats going away for a complete unit with ignition switch and turn signals and just cut out my wiring harness.

I was going to try and reuse some of my harness, but I am going to rewire most of it in the column install so why waste time dancing around stuff thats going in the trash later anyway.
Clean slate.

This unit is complete. It is too long to fit in between firewall and dash, so I have see some pics about how others have cut the front off the bracket to fit and welded an angle to fit up to the back of the dash

I know i will have to cut the pedal arms down to fit.
This is the firewall. I am going to cut a big square hole in it in a hot minute.

How far down do i need to mount the bracket assembly to clear the hood for a brake booster? In the pics I have seen it looks that If I use a 1992 wrangler booster/master assembly, the top of the booster is slightly below the top of the master.

If you guys have pics, please link them up. If you have advice, please post it up. Thanks a lot!

 

I cut off that tubing and the plate I welded on there for no good reason.

 

Check with Warlock aka Chuck or go on his site..........he's done quite a few of those pedal setups in the early flatties , I think due to the lack of space he uses a Wilwood pedal set.

 

I did a little more research. Seems there is a stand off bracket that goes in between the firewall and the booster. i don't have that part. Before i get all crazy, I am going to purchase a booster/master and bracket assembly to fit this thing up. I could make my own but for under 50 bucks shipped on Ebay i can have a used complete assembly that hopefully will work enough to at least get proper fit up of pedals, bracketry and master. Thats basically the price for a core on rock auto.

 

even more better getting rid of excess welded on junk. Yes, I said more better! I did a poor job when i welded together what little bit of body I had with no plan of engine or how it was going to really fit together.

 

That bracket is a basic linkage adapter, commonly used by the factory to move the booster farther out from the firewall when space is at a minimum for clearance at the firewall and hood. .......that does change the ratio on the pedals as the linkage is offset to do that function.............Obviously , It does push the booster and master further out into the engine compartment by about 3-4" ..........You really want to keep all of that as close to the firewall as possible, and for a booster I would be looking at a 7" dual booster (as shown in my picture). Much more compact yet still does the job. And as far as using the linkage you can remove the center of the pedal ( take a look at the picture )set make another plate for the center and then offset the holes for the booster while still keeping the push rod for the booster inline with the proper position on the pedal arm to keep the pedal ratio at about 4:1 for a power system. Also a good Idea is to make a bracket inside behind the dash that captures the front of the pedal bracket that fully supports the set from movement without putting a piece of 1/4" plate across the front of the firewall.
If you decide to go this way take your time figuring out all of the placements for the booster , pedal bracket, replacement center and ratios. Done several it does work and keeps things compact under the hood on a CJ5....... Of course with a flattie it is a little tighter under the hood and under the drivers side leg compartment but it will work if you cut down all of the parts.............or take a look at what Chuck did on his flattie setup's.

 

You guys are a whole lot of awesome!

Those 2 pics are what I am after. Like those cleco pins. If I was near Boeing surplus, if it was still open, I could buy a box of them with the tool!

I was looking at a 7" booster on summit. Looks real similar to the one above.

I am definitely going to mount the pedal bracketry to the firewall and the dash. I bought a complete used YJ stock booster/master off epay for 46 bucks shipped. The core is 45 bucks for a rebuilt unit, so i lose nothing if it doesn't work, but I get a unit to mock up with. I am using the hydraulic master to run my Novak slave. I see that in the pic above the pedal bracketry that the clutch master is missing. Mine has the bracketry for the clutch master, but is too large.. the holes for my clutch master are too close together to use it.

So, what you guys are saying is that I do not have to use the stand off that goes in between the pedal bracket bolts and the vacuum booster? Just cut those bolts off, drill for the bolts to the booster, affix through firewall, trim push rod and done?

I have quite a bit less room than a cj5, so i need to make sure i clear the hood with all this brake stuff. I am also limited in pedal length, so ratio may be a compromise. I want to stuff that brackety as high up in the cowl as possible while clearing the hood with the master/booster and still try an have enough pedal arm length to have effective braking.

I would really like to cut my dash out again and this time not weld it back together, but bolt it in place. It would make this easier and the wiring simple. It might also facilitate the column install with specific custom brackets. Might also make a nice place to put a battery on the passenger side under the cowl a bit.


project creep project creep project creep

 

That does sound easy and cheap. Killer!

 

Get the parts in front of you...........You do not need to use the spacer unless you want to move it all farther out into the engine compartment. The hole pattern in the Booster as compared to the pattern in the pedal bracket and spacer are different........that's where replacing the plate in the base of the pedal bracket comes in to relocate the holes and center line hole for the push rod...........easy to see when you have the parts there. The pedal set comes apart so you can take those arms off and shorten or bend them to wherever you need them to be. You just have to play with the parts , moving , trimming , up-down until you get them to fit your legs while still at the correct 4:1 ratio.

 

I'd have the motor in before you start laying out the location of the booster. It's going to be tight.

 

I have an empty block and some dead heads that i will put in. I am going to do that anyway because i really hate my cj5 headers. They really are the defining problem with my engine placement. Its not really a problem, more of an irritation and a limitation. I have a set of cast manifolds off a buick special 225 and a crossover pipe. Top pic. Only problem is that where it straihghtns out to go to the rear is on the passenger side. If I can figure out how to make new pipes I am all over it. That or bag that junk and pull the trigger on the Novak block huggers and be done. spendy, maybe totally worth it too.

 

Yup, thats why I did the impulse epay buy of the used YJ booster/spacer/master assembly. My pedal assembly is apart right now. I saw how you made that adapter plate and cut out the front of the bracketry. I will see how it all lays out for me.

 

Thank you. Thats a modern set up you have there. Is the engine a 4.3? Are you not running a hydraulic clutch?

 

Great info... one of the tubs I have was already converted to swinging pedals. Hopefully I'll be in for an easy swap, once I get there. There's a whole lot of stuff to be aware of, that I hadn't considered.

Carry on!

 

Cars generally have shorter cowl-to-floor ratios than jeeps do. You might look into a pedal assembly from a low sports car instead of a jeep for your 2A. There is NOT much room in there. By the time you make it more shallow, shorter, figure out your ratio... You might be in the realm of an assembly from a Miata (or ?).

Just thinking outside the box.

 

Yes this might have, in retrospect, been a better way to go. I already have all the components. I will modify them. The ratio might not be perfect, but they will be power brakes and can't help but be better than the manual which I got to work pretty well.

 

Got this booster/master/spacer assembly on epay for the cost of a core with shipping.

I wanted to take off the pedal to booster rod. Apparently that is not something that can be done without destruction of the booster? I may have to modify my fender a little bit to make this power brake system happen but probably not.