Has anyone used Herms MC kit in a V6 SM465 setup?

Hi guys, I have finally gotten back to working on my 1960 CJ5 and have run into an issue. I have a freshly rebuilt 231, and SM465 that I just dropped into the frame, and noticed that the Herms master cylinder kit interferes with the clutch arm. Does anyone else have this combo setup that could possibly snap a few pics of it for me? Maybe I am missing something? Thanks in advance.

 

Not the same, but i had to cut my release arm to clear. There are shorter release arms available as well.

 

I have that set up and I remember everything being very tight in that area but I have about 2" clearance. I have the AA chain linkage, which might be different. I can't confirm it has original clutch arm.

I don't have a photo hosting account, so don't really know how I would get you the pictures but I have some.

 

Thanks guys! I have the AA chain clutch setup ready to install, forgot to mention that. Anyway, the clutch arm has 2 sets of holes, one farther inboard and one towards the outside. It does look like I could trim off about 2" of it, but I worry about how much fun the clutch pedal will be after losing some mechanical advantage lol. I could always just convert to hanging pedals, but the Jeep came with a complete new brake setup including Herms kit. So I guess I would just rather make it work than have to buy more parts.

Oh yeah, 47v6 how far is the engine offset in your Jeep? I'm just wondering if I can push it just a few inches toward the passenger side to make this work better, but don't want to mess up any driveshaft angles by doing it?

 

My arm only has one hole and it doesn't stick out of the bell housing very far.

You might think about pushing it to the passenger side if you can or consider swinging pedals...my jeep doesn't have much room between the brake pedal and transmission. Makes using the gas pedal with work boots on tough which is the only downside I have experienced with the sm465 swap.

 

Pretty much nothing is stock on my 2A. I never put it together with the clutch cross tube, so I can't really give you any good info. My engine is offset to the DRIVERS side to make the headers fit. I know, its not right, but its the only way it fits. I did use the floor pedals before tearing it apart and had no trouble with the clutch as I used the "dreaded cable". Worked really well for me. going hanging and hydraulic with power brakes real soon. Good luck!

 

I will try to upload some pics this evening to show what I'm dealing with. I wanted to retain as much of the original cross member geometry as possible. That said, with the t-case bolted to the original cross member, and custom mount to the adapter, it pushes the motor to the drivers side when everything is squared up. I think I can make it work, but it's just ironing out this master cylinder clearance issue. It doesn't seem to affect the cross tube at all, so I think I'm ok there. One thing I have learned from this is that I must throw any reservation about things just bolting up, out the window lol. The Jeep itself is like a 100 year old house, there is not one straight wall or door opening in the entire thing lol. So knowing this, and also knowing that I am not building a show Jeep, I think I just have to say screw it and cut, weld, hammer, think, then repeat. Or should it be think first??? lmao!

 

For some reason It won't let me upload pics? I have before without issue, so I will continue to try until I get it. Stay tuned lol

 

Well, I put the pics in my profile for now. Anyway, the MC in the pics is actually moved forward 1 1/2". It needs to move back to line up with the mounting holes designed for the kit. I figure if I slice off an inch of the passenger side crossmember, then add it to the drivers side, it will let me move the front of the engine over to the passenger side giving me some more clearance with the clutch arm. This seems like a good way to do it, but...??? any other ideas lol

 

Host the pics on something like photobucket and then embed the links. uploading files is disabled.

 

That is the same release arm I used. I cut off the first hole completely and just used the inner one. I did not buy Herms master cylinder kit, but made my own and it had the master up real tight to the frame and that was lined up with the stock place for the push rod.

 

@47v6, so are you still using the stock clutch style cable? or the AA chain? and how stiff is the clutch on yours? I think I'll trim the arm tonight, and see where that puts everything.

 

My jeep is in all of its components right now. wrecked a piston, very close to finishing a tube frame, going to rebuild my SM420 and D 18, installing hanging pedals and hydraulic clutch with power brakes.

I only used the cable setup when i put it together the first time, never used the AA chain deal. I really liked the cable because it completely did away with the clutch cross shaft tube thing. The pedal pressure was no problem either and it has a new stock GM pressure plate. On my first 2a i used the cross tube thing. I really disliked it. It was prone to wear and if you twisted it up 4x4ing the clutch tube would gall making it not work so well. Might have just been mine though.

4" angle grinder with a cut off wheel and rounding it a bit with the grinding wheel solved my problem in about 5 minutes.

Good luck