1975 Brake proportioning valve

Anyone know of a source for one?

The ones I have are unusable, and need to be replaced.
I can't seem to find a source for one to buy.

Thank You!

 

How are the ones you have unusable?

 

http://www.carolinaclassictrucks.com/jeep-proportion-valve.html

 

All these are disk/drum valves. A '75 has all drums, unless it's been converted. The combination valve for a '75 has a warning light switch and a proportioning valve for the rear wheels. The disk/drum types also have a metering valve for the front disks.

 

Summit racing has adjustable ones

 

The valves I have were both ruined being exposed to the elements from careless storage by PO's.
My CJ is drums all the way around, and will probably stay that way.
I would prefer a stock valve I can plumb in, but I have heard that they are fussy to bleed correctly?
Was hoping for a simple plumb in solution, without a "dial in" experimentation with a generic adjustable valve.
But, if no other solutions, I'll go that way, reluctantly, although full brake pressure to either axle might come in handy on a trail(asking as the complete Jeep/off road newb I am)?

 

As I recall, there are 5 lines to this thing - two from the MC, 2 to the front brakes, and one to the rear. You could put one of the aftermarket adjustable proportioning valves in the rear line, and maybe use one of the Jeep parts as a junction block? Looking at the drawing in the manual, it may be possible to gut the prop valve part of the Jeep part, and make it into just a junction block. There are also junction blocks available - not exactly the same but similar - that could take the place of the Jeep part when combined with an inline prop valve, and even give you a working brake warning light.

 

There are. But I would rather not try to free those up. Time wise seems better to plumb new than spend the time for me to feel comfortable to plumb my brakes to either.

Speaking of, as there are two feeds from the MC, couldn't the rear port(or front, however that works) be plumb straight to the rear?

Is there a "Safety" between front and rear cups in the MC if a hose blows as in more modern cars? Or was this in the Jeep valve unit, if at all, being a 75?

I did buy the front/rear braided stainless line kit in extra length for 4" lift PO installed. Also already have new line. Am trying to make or buy most everything new Destined as a show/marketing tool for customer builds as well as fuel for near free and relatively fuel efficient if foot out of turbo while I am still a po wite guy.

I hope it shows. I discovered I have a #1 Google search:
If one searches the Isuzu engine code "4FB1" @ GOOGLE(don't think any other engines), at "Google Images"... :stout:

Ya should see my concept for a either a 58 desoto or a 62 Cadillac based sports car, sketched in 1992-93..

lol

Anyways, I'll have to do more homework, and inspect the valves again...

:stout:

 

So I have been poking around and have a few questions:

Again, could I plumb the lines straight from the MC to front/rear?
The correct port forward(guessing the front port), to junction block(to split to the front R/L slv clys). Rear port, to proportioning valve, to rear?

Would there be any safety concerns by doing this?

As far as gutting the original valve, it looks like the entire system would be connected front/rear if I did that by what I saw in a cut away pic.



And It sure looks like going to a front disk system is the way to go, eventually. However I am at the point I need to get the darn thing DRIVABLE at this point.
Refinement will be ongoing to be certain. Still have a front driveshaft to buy, turbo to rebalance/rebuild, Turbo manifold to make, ect., ect...

Sometimes being a po wite privilege guy sux. . WTH is all this privilege I keep hearing about, cause I haven't seen it yet.

 

Oh I forgot to mention:
I accidentally bought the EARLIER style MC. The one with the cap that is bolted on, not the bail wire type.
I thought I had thought this was the type I had. But wasn't.

This may be a bonus?
Seems on other forums: The <1973 MC had an internal residual valve, and was plumbed simple and straight forward like I am hoping to?

 

I suggest you connect it like the factory did. You can buy a junction block without a proportioning valve, and a stand-alone proportioning valve.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Right+Stuff/9...4&cadevice=c&gclid=CNGWq-j94cQCFcVi7AodXigA1Q
http://www.amazon.com/JEGS-Performa..._2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1428333794&sr=1-2

Residual valve is not a proportioning valve. Usually a residual valve is needed when the MC is below the level of the wheel cylinders, ie through-the-floor pedals. Keeps the fluid from draining back to the MC. Residual valves are check valves, not proportioning valves.

 

Hey Gents,
So, one of the valves appeared not as bad off as I originally thought. So imma roll the dice.

Both of the valves I have are this Wagner 104-5(If I recall the # correctly) type. Both CJ5's(restomod, and parts Heep)were '74 models, with manual drums all around, and this valve installed it looked like from factory inside the frame rail.
Not '75 as originally posted.

So, is this diagram correct? Any other considerations or advice I should know about? Again, using the earlier style MC with bolt on cover.
I will be bench bleeding the MC.

Thanks for all the help and advice so far, and in advance. Great group here!

 

Absolutely correct Timgr. The other time a residual pressure valve is used is when the wheel cylinders do not use cup expanders to hold the lips of the cups to the inside of the wheel cylinders. This keeps the fluid from seeping past the lips of the cups when not in use and losing fluid when parked. Wheel cylinders with cup expanders do not use a residual pressure valve normally while those without typically do.