D30 Ubolt and shim kit

Summit is selling the Ubolt with the shims.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/exp-50020

Cant really go wrong for the price

 

well...they are not correct.
D30 has one wide ubolt to go over the axle housing
Those look like the D44 tapered housing ubolts.

 

Yeah, I know but I will just reuse my old one if It doesn't magically appear. Its worth it to me at that price for the shims.

edit edit..

I just did a part number search. you are correct. I searched summit for the front U bolts and these are listed as FRONT.

This kit also states to not use degree shims on front axle. http://www.procompusa.com/downloads/PDFs/is/58000.pdf

guess I should have looked a little harder at what they were selling me and not just accepted what they clearly stated.

I also bought these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLF-10104 they seem to have the larger one for the diff housing. I wonder why I shouldn't use the shims for caster?

 

X2
And the shims look like aluminum or potmetal. They will break eventually....BTDT.
Contact forum member Mcruff. He can make you some very nice steel ones in any degree you want, for a very reasonable price.

 

Neither one of the sets I bought have the big u bolt for the one on the housing. The shims are made of pot metal and are garbage and one set is3/8 of an inch to wide ID.

 

I know I could have had McRuff make me a set of shims, but i made my own.

they are 3 degrees and made of some plate I bought at the steel supplier. Its just plain steel. turned up the speed all the way on the mill and cut it with a 3/4 carbide roughing end mill.

 

made drivers side spring plate out of 3/8 plate. TIG welding skills aren't great, especially after 4 passes. I am no good at walking the cup. Wahtever, it won't fall apart of break for sure.

 

That looks like the rear kit that I bought from Rancho. The aluminum shims went straight into the trash. I also bought a front kit at the same time and installed some 6 1/2 degree steel shims and the old CJ tracks great.

 

the passenger side spring plate and 3* shim is done. I did better with this side, but it is no more strong. Turned up the amp to 115 and put the pedal down. 1/8 filler wire. I have been welding thin stuff and stainless thin stuff. this is a pleasure to weld even if it looks like poo. Im not a welder, I just play one on TV. wait, they made a movie about that idea .... better get out my wig.

 

Where is your caster now? Hopefully 3 degrees will be enough. I have McRuff's 6 degree shims and the old, wandering Jeep has gone down the road straight since installing them. It's one of the best things I've done to it. When I bought the Jeep the caster angle was at 0 degrees!

 

I don't have a degree finder and didn't degree it before I put the spindle on to get an accurate number. I did put a level on the bottom ball joint and it had some, just not enough. Thats why I went with 3* and not more. I drove it to costco to get tires today after putting in the shims. I didn't really have a lot of trouble driving and most of it I attributed it to just driving an old jeep. It wandered a little bit and was slightly unstable over rough road. Not enough to make me too very concerned. Well, seems that that is all in the past now. I had none of the issues I was used to. On the way back with my new giant tires I had even less trouble. Seems kinda strange that a little shim can make this much difference.

 

They look great! How did you hold them to mill them? Angle vise? Let see some pictures of the jeep with the new rubber!

 

I have 3/4 cabinet grade plywood kicking around for making cabinet carcasses. I took a piece, cut a 3* angle in it. I made 2 the same to fit in my mill vise as parallels. I then ran a 3/4 carbide roughing end mill over it. Cheap simple and fast.



I will be going approximately 48MPH per online calculator for tire size, R&P ratio and 2500 rpm. I may not need an overdrive unless I plan on going 65 mph for any length of time. That would be very scary anyway.

 

I'm guessing with the shims and stretched wheelbase it doesn't handle too bad at 65. You need to park the jeep so you can go down the slide right into the drivers seat! That would be very "batcave"

 

I need a step ladder to get in now. Fastest I have gotten it to is 45mph so far. 65 would be frightening no matter how well it handles.

 

Welds don't look bad. Did you bevel the plate? My personal preference is stick for anything chassis or suspension related. Give good ductility while remaining strong. How is your driveshaft angle after installing these? I know on my tj it was always a balance game between driveshaft angle and caster.

 

looks great. I've been watching your build, and enjoying your fab skills - or learning of said fab skills on the fly.

 

TIG welding makes no spark and no smoke and thats what my preferred welding method is inside my house. Yes inside my house.

The 1/2 bolt that I cut the head off for the shock mount is round and i just filled in the recess. The one side is flush that goes up against the spring and the other side hangs beyond the face of the plate.

I used a ER70S-3 filler rod 1/16 on the side with 4 passes at 85 amps with 15cfm argon and ER80S-D2 in 1/8 filler rod at 115 amps with 15 cfm argon on the other one that looks better. The pics actually look considerably worse than in real life.

 

Hey Chris.............Is this a test?..........7018 is a fluxed ARC stick welding rod that runs best on reverse polarity..........never seen it for Tig , The E series rods like ER70S & E-70 are what I hope your using........all of which are 70K Tinsel strength. ...........Looking at your weld and assuming that plate is .375-.500 It looks like your short on power / Heat!.......and with just a 110v machine that is understandable which means ARC may have been the better choice to use in order to build some heat and get penetration..........or you could try pre-heating your part........I hope you ground off the plating on that bolt before you welded it........nasty gases..........................

Pictured is Chrome moly to Mild steel using 309 stainless rod.

 

Cant get any BS past you

I have no idea why I saw 7018 or why I posted that. I should definitely have known better than that.

my TIG welder is a Miller synchrowave 180 SD. 220 volt.

Yeah, The rod I used for the 4 pass weld job at 85 amps was ER70S-3 in 1/16 diameter. Too low heat, too thin filler wire. I have been welding stainless sheet and real thin stuff lately, so i was reluctant to turn it up. 4 passes to do what i cold have done in 1. oh well.

The rod I used for the single pass job was ER80S-D2 in 1/8 diameter with 115 amps. I should have gone to 130 or more amps because I had the pedal all the way down the whole time.

I can make some welds that are ok. I really need to take a class with all my extra time. no, but really I would love to find time.