Now I need some Dimensions

Finally got around to getting the bumper off. What a fine job some PO did mounting it -not.
On both side the ends of the channel rail are bent (mangled) down, and on the passenger side the rail
is bent outwards. The cross member piece is busted up and bent and cracked also. We're going to try to
weld it this weekend and I have to get the pieces ready. I've got some 2" plate I'm going to put in top
and bottom to box it and also possibly add a brace back to the steering gearbox.

If anyone can snag me the two dimensions below I'd appreciate it. Thanks, _Dan

 

JMO - boxing the channel beyond the front cross-member seems rather pointless. The frame horns only support the bumper on an intermediate frame - the front cross member is the main stuctural element. I would just straighten the frame horns so the factory bumper fits and focus on making the frame rails from the front cross member back straight, and making the front cross member perpendicular with the frame rails. The steering gear brace is a good idea - if I were going to weld one, I would copy the aftermarket steering brace design.

Another thing - the factory welds on these frames are often quite shoddy. If you are a good welder, it may be worthwhile to focus on rewelding the factory joints with a better welds.

 

Jeep 906781 http://walcks4wd.com/manufacturer/front-bumper-cj5-cj6-1954-71.html - says through '71, but it's the same PN through '75. Bolted, not riveted.

 

Hard to measure the inside dimension between the frame horns with the bumper on. Outside is 29 1/8" as close as I can get with my tape. Again, it has to fit the bumper.

Inside height is 3 3/16", again to measuring tape accuracy.

 

As will always be the case - 'Thank You Tim'
If but only I could weld. I can design the fixtures, I can calc the heat strains, and I can spec the weld. Can lay a bead to save my soul.
My buddy Paul is tasked with that portion. I take care of his 'puter needs, he gets to stregthen the '73.
He has found a couple of welds as you mentioned above and is going to hit them all if he has time.
I'm doing the box for two reasons, the first is to beef up the the back of the bumper and to keep the rails straight in case of the odd
tree jumping out in my path. I had that happen in a snow storm in my 1st '70 and it's funny how tough a 5" tree is.
I slide off, hit it dead center on the bumper, bent that back and it pulled in the rails, twisted the springs and broke the outer U-Bolts.
My other thought is to have a proper solid place to mount those chrome tow hooks that I picked up... and of course maybe some retro KC's

When she still had the tires and old springs on, the rails were flexing about a 1/4", Paul figures it was because of the lousy welds and broken rivet
joints on that cross member.

Hopefully this weekend she'll be back down on the ground. Taking the day off to do the springs and bushings. - yuck on the bushings.

_Dan

 

Hey, you are welcome. It's fun to share the hobby this way.

Yeah, the factory bumper was always something of a sacrificial component. I've bent up a few of them. My current bumper is also bent - came with the Jeep.

A '70 is really different from a '73 in this department. Prior to 1972, the bumper was delivered riveted to the frame horns. It formed a structural member with the frame horns, forcing them to stay in parallel. After '71, the big cross member took over that job, and the bumper was only bolted on (it became removable). Add more steel if you want, but I think the place to focus on is where the front member joins the frame, not ahead of that.

Realize that the frame will twist - a lot - wrt the body when you stuff one front wheel and let the other hang. That's just the way these frames are made.

 

I've got the bumper from that '93 YJ that we salvaged, same length interestingly enough, a bit wider, but we can make do with that.
Quite a bit more stout also.
Got interrupted yesterday and still have not got back to it. Silly RL getting in the way of my Jeep® rebuild.
We're running out of 'Top Off' weather here...!

 

what tim says... my 69 came with a squeezed middle and a passenger side that stopped the jeep somewhere.

To fix it I ground down / drilled out the rivets. I got my two "biggest" - "Big freakin hammers" ... an 8 lb sledge and a 16 lb sledge... the 16 worked like a nice anvil. It actually fit well within the rails.

I pounded this way and that then checked it for being strait and like new...

Wire wheeled, and rattle primered and I may use or may not.

I found the part number stamps...

 

Well, got back to it yesterday. Buddy was suppose to show up with his torches, and didn't.
(I need to remember that next time he's calling @ 9pm needing to get the kidz homework off a crashed computer...)

Heated the Pass side up with propane and MAPP, and with a couple of steel plates, bar clamps and smaller versions of Danefraz's adjustment tools,
I got it straightened out and back into spec, at least side to side. The tops still need straightening.
Some folks really need to learn where and how to mount tow hooks. Judging by how messed up the holes and how bent to hades the top of the
channels are, some PO did some heavy tugging.

I'm going to bolt a plate to channels to keep them in place til I can get it to the welder.
At least now the forward bushing mount is straight and I feel better about installing the springs.

_Dan