Walker 2GC rebuild kit - Gasket question

So, I'm rebuilding my Rochester on my 66 Dauntless. Had some oddities so far, like the top of the choke housing is broke off and actually attached to the air filter base instead of to the carburetor, but it lines up when you put it back together so I guess that's fine (side note, if anyone does have a spare choke house laying around that is _not_ broken, I'd be interested in taking it off your hands). Anyway, the kit I used is the Walker from O'reilly auto. In the pic on their site, the two gaskets in the top right and the one in the bottom left, all look like they could be used for the throttle body to manifold mating. The black one however, is super thick, over 1/4", and resembles the crud I dug out of the grooving on the bottom of the throttle body during removal. It leads me to think that it was at least the one used on the last service. However, does anyone have any advice on what the _correct_ setup there is? The thin gasket pictured in the lower left seems to match the edges of the bottom of the throttle body the best, but the thicker gasket would probably just fill in most of the gaps, if that's what was intended for it to do. Never seen one like that before, but I'm pretty new to this stuff.

Also, the accelerator pump seemed a lot more snug in its travel than the one I removed. I thought that was just because the rubber ring is new, but then I see there's a lot of variety on the pumps at carburetor-parts.com. So is the pump in the Walker kit likely the right one for the 66 Dauntless application, or should I look at specifically ordering a different pump, or just use the one that was already in it? Didn't seem to be anything physically wrong with it, I just thought that the ring should have more grip along the edges of the cylinder it rests in, to get a better push.

 

The stock intake manifold has two holes (one each side) of the front of the carb mount. These holes are usually full of carbon from the exhaust. Clean them out the best you can. The gasket shown in the lower left is the only gasket there that will allow the exhaust heat to reach the throttle body. I personally prefer the heated throttle body but some don't. For the accel pump, if my original one is working fine then I keep the new one for a spare.

 

Well, this hasn't run since I got it, so I can't say for certain if it was working or not Anywhere to get the exact specs on what the cup diameter should be on the CJ5 application?

 

Changing accel pumps is very simple so after rebuilding the carb, fill the float bowl with fuel and put the top with accel pump on with a couple a screws. Work the accel pump by hand and see if you get two solid squirts of gas down each venturi. If you don't then put on the new one. You must get the solid streams of gas from each stroke.

 

The pump in the Walker kit is okay, but I've had the cup fold on me twice. The best ones you can get currently have the spring under the cup. I think one of the Buick parts sites sells them. I did not run the carb heat on my Jeep. I tapped out the holes and plugged them with allen screws, which is a common mod. No trouble starting it down to -15F. I used the 1/4 in phenolic spacer that comes in the kit and one gasket on each side. This helps to keep your carb cool and prevent vapor lock. It also helps get a good seal on the bottom of the carb and top of the manifold which are often very pitted due to the corrosive nature of the exhaust fumes that flow through there with the stock setup.

 

I may have to get a hold of one of those phenolic spacers and try it on my boat, it's always vapor locking - at the least convenient times of course...

 

Thanks for the advice guys, I read an 11 page thread yesterday from 8 years ago where a guy was going through similar issues I've been encountering and picked up a lot there too. I'll be sure to test the accel pump before retiring the old one to see if it was still usable. Would rather go with a cup I know hasn't rotted from ethanol or folder than a new untested one.

 

Trying to do a little more checking to see what accelerator pump _should_ be in here, dimension-wise. carburetor-parts.com shows a rebuild kit, which indicates it is for my specific carb model number, 7026082. The kit claims to include a 21/32" cup with a 2.500" pump. However, they also sell a separate pump with those same dimensions, which does not list my carb model as a valid application. They also sell a 21/32" with a 2.590" height pump and that does not list it either, but entering my carb model on quadrajetparts.com returns the 21/32" x 2.590" pump as the only pump application for my carb on their site. Does anyone know a more reliable, definitive source for carb model number to part matching than these various retailers? Maybe an old book someone has laying around? Having more information on other components like the main metering jets, etc would be nice as well in case I wanted to replace those. Either way, my new pump is so snug in the well compared to the old one, either the old one is very shriveled up or the new one is a 3/4" instead of a 21/32", which seems to be all I can tell for sure should be the case. The pump's height appears different as well compared to the old one, but I can't be at all certain the old one was correct. Just trying to cross my Ts with this rebuild and get it right the first time.

 

Have you measured the length of your old pump and diameter of the new pump cup? If you have a harbor freight around you can buy a digital caliper for cheap. I have found them very useful for measuring and checking stuff like this. With the way the pump works and the amount of slop in the linkage I can't image .09in makes a big difference. Cup size is another story. The bigger cup might stop short in the well or worse. If you are going to buy a whole new pump I think this is the one you want -- http://quadrajetparts.com/rochester...arter-spring-style-oal-2500-q1006a-p-659.html

Or you could just buy their 23/32 cup garter, add that to the Walker pump and let us know how it works.

Also it is a common practice to spray some silicone lube in the pump well or spread vaseline on the pump well walls during assembly to lube the skirt during the first few pumps.