No spark

1955 A1, trying to get it running. It has no spark to the plugs. I cleaned the points and there is spark from them. pulled the coil and there was a little black burnt smelling black oil in the bottom of distributer?? Checked that there is power to the coil, another post stated that "you either don't have power to the coil or the primary side of the coil is open" What Ohms should the coil test at? Thanks

 

Or possibly the condenser is shorted, depriving the coil of power?

This is from a post by WesK at the G503 forum.
"With all wires disconnected from the coil. Ohm meter connected across the + and - terminals 5.0 to 6.0 Ohms (primary circuit). With Ohm meter leads on the center contact and the - terminal from 11,500 to 14, 900 (secondary circuit).... There should be no continuity between any of the three contacts on the top of the coil and it's metal case. Usually a coil that is breaking down when hot will loose a significant amount of secondary resistance."

 

You are working on a 24v military right?

 

Yes, 24 Volt system. I might just go ahead and buy a new coil and a tune up kit from KaiserWillys.com.

If anything this would be beneficial.

 

Well, I put in a new coil, cap, rotor, condenser and points and got good spark now. She wants to start with a little gas in the carb, just need to get fuel to the carb...

 

If you still have the military fuel pump, there is a priming lever on it - work that a few strokes. Also be sure the nearby fuel line valve is open.

 

Thanks for the info. I'm not sure if it has the original fuel pump, but having to prime it would have stumped me...
Got any pics?

 

http://s34.photobucket.com/user/GBostwick/media/Fuel_Pump.jpg.html
The priming arm is pictured, behind the letters K & L. You don't "have"to prime it, but it will save cranking with the battery.

 

If the timing is even close, and with all those new parts you are getting spark, then dumping a gas can cap full of fuel down the throat of the carb should fire that beast right up.

 

Or burn your eyebrows off...

 

I dump it in then get in the driver's seat. Plenty of space between me and the carb. plus a little time for some vapor to form.

And there is less than a liquid ounce in a gas can spout cap.

 

It just wont start up... not even a pop or backfire. I pulled the plugs to clean them and they look pretty worn out. I'm going to buy new ones and see what she will do.

 

Put one of the plugs in a plug wire and lay it on top of the engine. Then try cranking and look at the spark across the plug gap. It should be a strong blue-white arc, clearly visible.

If you have gas and spark, and it won't even pop, then the timing must be way off. Or the valves aren't opening at all. The 134s have timing gears, so it seems unlikely that the cam timing is off or the cam is not turning. You can pull the valve cover off and look at the valves moving to see that the cam is turning. Another unlikely possibility - the valves are adjusted so loose that the valves aren't opening.

 

Ditto on checking spark, but you said you had good spark, and gas poured in the carb gave you some action. Seems the carb isn't feeding? Stuck float or water/crud in the bowl maybe..

I'd also try a shot or two of ether (starting fluid) first. Too much gas can be as bad as none.

Cranking it with your thumb over a spark plug hole will tell you very roughly if you've got valve action and compression - it will blow your thumb loose at TDC.
Or, a good time to do a full compression check if you can buy or borrow a gauge.

 

Got the new plugs. What should they be gaped at?

 

.030" gap should be right.

A FSM would be really good to own. The military manuals are excellent, and accessible on-line too.