44 tapered axle conversion

Can anyone tell me what all is involved in converting my offset 44 with 5.38s and a locker to a 30 spline flanged and still use my locker if I modify my locker?

Fltfndr

 

Can't convert to flanged. You can either convert the D44 you have now to full float or look for a flanged 44.

Most if not all locking differential cannot be converted for different spline counts IIRC.

 

taryy99 had some information from a company that supposedly made shafts that worked.
Personally I wouldn't waste time or money trying to do it.
Like mentioned above FF or find the flanged 44...or cut down a centered 44

 

What specific locker do you have ?
The differential is a seperate issue from the axle shafts.

I've heard that "Dutchman" will custom build flanged full floating axle shafts.
So first you would have to custom modify the axle housings to accept full float spindles.

Read Metcalf's post over here:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/r...8_post289387.html?KW=dutch+axle+shafts#289387

 

I converted my 41-2 rear end to FF years ago. I used the Warn kit with super stout axle shafts. This is a flanged axle conversion. I installed a Lock Right locker - the only one I could find for a Spicer/Dana 41 and 11" drum brakes. I would do this mod again - it's especially good (essential?) if you are going to tow your Jeep. It also makes a disc brake conversion a lot easier.

This kit is no longer available, but Herm has a conversion kit available. I have been happy with the parts I have bought from Herm.

 

Herms full float kit has the option of 30 spline or 19 spline shafts. That should let you keep your locker.

 

I bought new flange axle paper weights. Lost $850 dollars when I found they did't work. Don't waiste your time. Convert to full float kit.

 

Herms full float kit works great.

 

I picked up a offset 44 that had Summers Brothers Flanged axles and a Detroit locker. The previous guy must have been confused and put in very narrow axle bearings, but it was all wrong. The tapered roller bearings were not preloaded and the bearing collar was rubbing on the housing when you pushed in on the axle. After a little research, I found that the bearings from a flanged 44 (1971 to 1976) were the right inside diameter for the axles and the right outside diameter for the housing, but were slightly narrower than the originals. I pressed the bearing and bearing collar on the axle, and it rubbed slightly on the housing too. I was able to fix the bearing collar interference with a carbide grinder. It required a minor amount of material to be removed and seems pretty thick there. The narrower bearing gave me an idea, and I checked the movement of the axle in and out with a dial indicator. I had my machinist buddy make me some shims to go into the axle housing, one custom made for each side. I figure the factory shims are .007" so that must be the spec. The custom shims are great because it eliminated the axle flange shim pack that is the factory fine adjustment for bearing preload. Both sides are .007 or less total play. I don't have it in yet, but don't expect any problems.