how much would you offer for this hardtop?

This hardtop is for sale near my area for $300. I don't know much about these tops so I have no idea if it is a good price or not. Based on its condition, how much should I offer? what other parts would I need?
Thank you

 

I would have bought it already. 300 bux is a good price... Get all the hinge parts too

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2

 

What brand of cab is it, maybe Koenig? http://cj3b.info/Hardtops/Koenig.html - Koenig was a Texas company.

As mentioned, be sure and get every bit of hardware. There will be no sources for replacements other than to make them. Look for rust. This one looks a little scabby to me.

I dislike the steel cabs, because they make the Jeep so much more top heavy. And they are not any quieter than a fabric top. About all they offer is more security for the Jeep's contents.

The market for steel cabs is very thin. Not much demand, but not much supply either. The last and best cabs were made by Meyer http://cj3b.info/Hardtops/Meyer.html - I would not want a steel cab, but if I did, I would look for a Meyer in good condition. Should be reasonable, because of the the thin market.

 

The doors don't look like the will fit a cj5, they look more like dj5 doors the way the back are cut out on a angle instead of a radius

 

if you look at the first picture you can see the radius on the door that is leaning on the top. I think the extra flap of steel must allow room for the Window to roll straight down. rather than how Meyers did it with the windows rolling at an angle.

 

I agree with Tim on this. The P.O. had a steel top on my Jeep, made it top heavy(er) & rattled like a tin can full on nuts & bolts...

 

Good thinking

 

Can you fabricate the front door upper pin HOLDER/RECEIVER. They were not in the photo that I could see.

As an idea, you will need two four inch long pieces of 1 1/2 inch angle with holes that you drill to match the set of holes in the outer edge face of the windshield. THE ANGLE POINTS FORWARD FROM THE OUTSIDE. Then weld or have welded two straight pieces of flat 4140 3/16 thick steel and a chunk to steel tube or drill a solid rod JUST JUST larger (A 1/16 INCH)than the pin on the upper door. That length of tube should be 1/8 inch shorter than the pin length. Hope that helps

The others told you that steel tops ARE heavy and a real windbreaker. We are telling you that that is in fact true.

Steel tops WILL not rip apart in a hail storm, just sayin.

THE COLOR IS IRRELEVENT, the rust needs a really good look see.

For those of us who have full hard tops the rear hatch does not open, no handle shown, not necessarily a bad thing.
OK I Am blind the rear door opens. Make sure the corners have the struts that keep them aligned properly. Mine rattled and flopped around until they were reinforced.

 

Top values vary greatly depending on the region. They seem to bring much more on the west coast. I usually get about $500 for a CJ5 top in decent condition with all the windows in place. The hinges can be duplicated fairly easy but the filler pieces that attach to the windshield frame are a little harder to duplicate. The other thing to think about is that the hardtop will still be worth what you paid in 10 years. A new softop will be worthless in 10 years if it is even still serviceable.

 

I can understand the appeal of preserving an original accessory, and it having collector appeal, steel tops included.

It is true that soft tops get shabby. But to me the joy of Jeeping is not about being locked in a noisy steel box.

 

Iff you are standing in the guys yard, offer $200 and see what he does. You can go up from there.

 

How long has it been advertised?

I'd low ball at maybe $100, and leave. It needs a lot of work - paint, rust repair, $25 worth of nuts and bolts, missing parts? Be very careful that you get everything, including both halves for every hinge. See if he calls you back. Personally I don't think it's worth much more than that. And a Meyer cab would be better.

 

I'd hold out for one of these


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Iv got the smae top on my jeep. I believe its a Kelly. thats what it says on the inner door latches. I cut the bottom of the doors to better match the door profile. Heres more pics on my build page http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/show...-room-we-got-a-fresh-one-)&highlight=jeep2003

 

A steel hardtop is heavy, but if you have winter it is pleasant because you can well close the car.
When weather is better, you take it away, need some room to keep it, and need help to move it.

The hard top in summer : waiting for winter (fix a hook in the middle, weight is 140 kg approx.


The way to install a good hook


This is the hook


The doors of the Meyer hard-top have a shape easily understandable


The rear door is very useful to put goods. I put the spare tyre on the side to be able to use this door.


door design




The parts where the hinges connect.


Rust is the friend of the steel hard-top; by chance now we have anti-rust products. Don't buy a hardtop is holes in it, because rust is coming inside between the steel sheets. SO no solution to care, too late.

If in good condition, buy it, it is a collector, you can rent your Jeep for films. If rusted, not all the parts included, don't buy. IMO.