Steering box rebuild

Slowly working on my 69 and the steering box has some play...rather then Saginaw I'd like to get it rebuilt but don't think it is something I could tackle my self. Can anyone point me to a rebuild source...I am located in SW Florida. Thanks

 

Lots here in prior posts, search "Ross", your fighting an uphill battle as there are a lot of pieces. And moving targets... Walcks has a lot of the pieces to help but I can't speak to the quality.


Fired my phaser at my abacus and it now hoses my grammar and spelling

69 Dauntless CJ5 - The Heep
Resto-Mod
(heep and jeep are four letter words)
http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showthread.php?99079-69-Dauntless-Project-the-Heep

 

It's not that hard to re-build. Check out this link.

http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Rebuilding-the-Ross-TL-Steering-Gear.html

That is where I started with my re-build for my V6 Ross Box. Had to buy a sector from DaBalla's and still need a better worm, but found all the rest of the parts a Walcks.

When you take off the Pitman arm, be sure to mark the sector and arm so you can get it back together with the right "clocking".

 

My jeep (V6) was not running when towed to it's new home...box is removed from frame but doesn't feel smooth when turning input shaft...The drag link has a sloppy weld repair so I will be looking for one of those as well, there may be other problems in the steering linkage but have not gotten to them yet. Thought there may be a someone out there who specialized in rebuilding ross boxes...will check out the suggested link. Thanks

 

The box on a V6 is the same as on a M38A1. I found a military rebuilt box for my jeep. I got the last one this guy had.

 

Good to Know...thanks

 

I just rebuilt the Ross box in my 4 cylinder cj2a and it was really easy. Only thing I didn't do myself was ream the bushings. I paid a machine shop for that 30 dollars. If I had to do it again I will buy the reamer and do it myself for about 50-60 dollars. So I didn't have to wait the 3 weeks he took when he quoted me next day. Also he reamed them separately so when the shaft went in it is a little hard because they aren't reamed straight with each other.

 

Yep, I used a brake hone as well, pushed the bushing in with my vice and a wood block and reamed with a brake hone. EasyPeasy

 

Me too. Took just enough off

 

I did mine it was a good fit after pressing in, I didnt need to ream it...

 

try here: http://walcks4wd.com/tightsteer

 

I have been looking at the tight steer..thanks

 

i had an old scout that had a bit of a loose steering issue and also leaked the fluid out an old seal. i just got all the old fluid out and replaced it with synthetic marine lower unit lube. the stuff you pump out of a grease gun. pretty thick for sure. however, it no longer leaked out around the seal, and the steering tightened up enough for me not to have to go into the box. drove it like that for over 2 years including during the winter with temps in the -30's range. steered well and had no problems.
yeah, i know that wasn't the best "fix" but it sure worked well enough for me.