Spring Bolt Question

Ok so let me preface by apologizing if I don't use to correct terms.

I just put new springs and shocks (Rough Country) on my 64 CJ5. The new springs came with blocks (correct term?) on the rear springs. However my axle spring seats (correct term?) already have blocks welded on and the two don't work together (see picture below.) My solution was to remove the block from the new springs since my welding and cutting knowledge/tools are zero.

Is there anything wrong removing the block from the new springs? It seems to have worked and everything fits.

In removing the block from the first spring I didn't think to hold the springs together and the pressure from the springs buggered up the bolt and nut. I later got smart and used the vice. I was able to re assemble the spring using the same hardware but I am concerned about the integrity of the bolt. Should I replace the bolt or once installed do the U bolts to the lion share of the work of keeping everything together?







FYI the rough country recently changed their kit and itnow has a military wrap spring and a lifetime warranty. Seems comparable to BDSat a much lower price (409 plus tax and freight). I’m not sure about stiffnessyet but worth a second look.

 

The correct term is castor shim or axle shim,

It appears the previous owner has welded the shim to your axle, with that being said you where correct about removing one.

As far as which one to use I'm not sure, someone else could tell you better than me.

Typically you replace u-bolts on axle cause they stretch. But for spring bolt I'm not sure if you need to replace, I know they stretch.

 

My feeling is that all the tensile force will be taken by the u-bolts, leaving the spring bolt only acting in shear. I'd re-use it, but that's just me.

The risk would be if someone gets a surprise facefull of leaf-spring the next time it is disassembled

 

That spring bolt ( I call it a center bolt) locates the spring to the axle via the hole in the bottom of the spring perch (axle spring seats, you called them). Shortly after buying my JEEP, at the tender age of like 20, the JEEP developed a nasty habit of wanting to suddenly turn left, with no input from the kid behind the wheel. Turned out that the spring center pin, on the front left spring, had broken, allowing the front axle to move back on the spring, initiating the unwanted left movement. I guess what I'm saying is that, it's probably a cheap bolt, as I recall, and if I had any doubt about the integrity of that bolt, I'd replace it rather than chance hurting someone if it breaks later on.

 

I agree with Wheelie. NAPA, many farm and tractor supply houses, etc. stock them. It's not pleasant when they fail.


Sent from my iPhone

 

It looks like the existing shims are only welded at the one end. If so you can tap the other end down and the weld will break fairly easily. Be sure and clean up any metal remnants interfering with a flat mounting surface. Since you have already removed the shims that came with the springs, I would try using the welded ones first. If you have vibration problems then the larger shims are still an option.

 

I'd measure the pinion angle and the angle of the transfer case rear output shaft before deciding which shim to use. You want those shafts to run parallel with the chassis loaded. Use some sandbags or something to get the springs flexed to normal running position.

Don

 

That is a very good point. I will check the pinion angel.

As I understand it the angle needs to be the same on both ends.



I'm trying to envision the geometry. When the vehicle is loaded the transfer casewill lower relative to the ground and the rear differential will remain in sameplace. At this point the pinion angelwill be reduced but it seems to me like the pinion angle will be reducedequally on both ends because there is only vertical movement and norotation. Am I thinking about thiscorrectly?

 

Your pinion angle shouldn't change significantly with spring loading and flex as long as the spring pack is in good shape. Any broken leaf changes that equation.
Your want your driveline configuration to look like the 2nd picture you posted above.
The angle on the transfer case companion flange will change with vehicle loading. That is the reason for pre-loading the vehicle before measuring the angles. Figure how you will be using the Jeep most of the time and weight it appropriately.

Don