pinion yoke removal

I am trying to remove the yoke on my 25 so I can replace the leaky seal. The nut came off easily but even with a quality two jaw puller the yoke will not pop off. Tonight I torqued up the puller and sprayed the shaft with Kroil, with the hope that it will loosen up Does anyone have any other ideas that might work to remove the stubborn yoke?

 

you might want to leave the nut on a couple threads so when the yoke pops loose it wont fly accross the garage.

forgot to add, with the puller on tight give the yoke a few taps with a hammer. that helped when i pulled the hubs off my rear axle.

 

Have you whacked the end of the puller screw with a BF Hammer?

 

Not yet. Thinking I will leave the puller on over night and see if the Kroil works its magic.I was a little reluctant to hit the end of the puller. Its a Snap-On puller that I borrowed. Afraid I will either damage it or the pinion shaft.

 

Whack end of puller and the yoke. A brass hammer is best but a steel hammer works too. Keep body parts away from the line of fire. After whacking it, try and tighten some more. Even an 1/8 turn is progress. Rinse, repeat. May take several times.


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aAter 20 minutes of banging away and 1/16 at a time , turn of the puller, I got the yoke off. The yoke has a visible grove where the seal wore against the yoke. What is an acceptable depth of the grove before the leaks begin?

 

I don't know if depth is the biggest factor, it's the surface. If it is a "smooth" and "even" groove I would expect the seal might work good enough. Sometimes I polish them a bit before refitting.

If not, thin slip-on sleeves are available to cover the wear. Check with a a machine shop.

 

I ve got a bearing shop near me. I will it bring by. A slip sleeve may fit the bill.

 

I ve got a bearing shop near me. I will it bring by. A slip sleeve may fit the bill. Someone used the front axle a lot to cut grove. I guess if crud slip by the yoke could have been grooved

 

do you have lock-out hubs?

 

Yes. Why?

 

Yes. Why? I have always run the hubs free, unless I was engaging the tcase. Who knows what happened 50 years ago. The lock outs could have been installed at anytime

 

Just to update, the yoke was badly grooved. I went to the local bearing shop and ordered up a slip sleeve. I was shocked when I found out the price,$45.00. I will have to hide that receipt! Put it all back together. So far so good no leaks

 

Glad it worked! Appreciate the update, that way we all learn something.

 

An old hard seal will groove a yoke fairly quickly. Repair sleeves are also available from places like Rockauto but by the time you pay shipping may not save much money. Did you try to find a good used yoke? Maybe put an ad in classifieds? Someone probably has a good used one from a parts axle. Just an FYI, coarse spline 25, 44, and 18 and 20 transfer case yokes are interchangeable. Just the dust shield is different. 27 yokes are different than the rest.

Glad you got it fixed!


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The sleeve seemed to be the best alternative. I never expected to pay $45.00. I would have looked a little harder for a good used one. Its done and looks good . In the big scheme of things , I spent money on worse things.

 

This thread was helpful so to hopefully add something helpful:
1. I found a CLAH (cheap little air hammer) to work better than a BFH with the the 2-jaw puller.
2. I used a 1.25" hole saw to drill out the center of a "65mm-68mm" 3/8" drive alum oil filter 'socket' as a driver for that convoluted seal.
The fun never ends
Cheers!