Painting the frame

I just finished boxing the frame, building new bumpers front and rear, and putting on wrangler spring hangers with the front outboarded. I'll have pictures fairly soon.

I was planning on going out and buying some POR15 for the frame, but it seems like it has to be ordered directly from them. I have a lot of black rustoleum spray cans sitting in the garage... In the interest of moving along with the project, what are your opinions on using rattle cans for painting the frame, or would you hold out and use something else?

Also, I plan on getting a spray gun to paint the body, but I was thinking about using rattle cans on the bottom of the tub so i could mount it on the rolling chassis to be towed between home and school for working on it. Any opinions on that? Or should I use real automotive paint on the bottom of the tub?

Thanks.

 

I cleaned my frame really good with a wire cup on the angle grinder and then hosed it all down with brake cleaner. I chose to paint my frame with a 3" roller and a quart of gloss black Rustoleum. I used this instead of spray paint to put on a thicker coat. Still on there after 2.5 years

 

There was a similar thread on WT. Rustoleum spray bomb is prolly not the best choice. I too used the Rustoleum in the quart, but sprayed it. Went on a LOT thicker than the spray bomb stuff. Have only had it on since June, but still looks good after sitting outside while I worked on the tub. Regardless, I'd still rust treat it with POR15 or SEM's Rust Stop, then paint with whatever.

BTW, I used a heavy scotch brite pad, a very soapy mix of detergent and hot water, and a pressure washer. Worked pretty good for cleaning the gunk off.

 

I've been reading some good things about Rust Encapsulator... and it's supposed to be cheaper than POR-15, which I definitely like!

Maybe it's just me (northern climes here), but I'm planning on investing some extra $$ to be as sure as I can that this baby will not rust up. But of course it's up to you, everybody has to decide how much they want to spend on what.

 

Living out here in the supposedly rust free west, I just painted mine with automotive gloss black, availale at any auto paint supply store. I imagine that any kind of protection is better than bare steel.

I also used rubberized undercoating from 3M on the bottom of my tub. Goes on thick, dries fast, and is inexpensive. Plus it's easy touch up.

 

I used a high grade enamal primer then enamal paaint all in the can its still on a whole month later lol.

 

Unless rust is a big problem where you live (not much of an issue here in FL) The spray bombs should be fine. One nice thing about the spray bombs is it's easy to touch it up.

I have an FC-150 that the PO put POR-15 on that is peeling off. Now I don't know how he applied it, as I understand it he followed the instructions after wire brushing. I personally am not too impresssed with POR 15.

If I had a rust issue I would lean towards trying the rust encapsulator Eastwood is hawking.

Eastwoods Chassis black is great stuff. I painted a CJ-7 frame with that with very good results. I'd go for the quart and spray it, but the spray bombs are good too.

As for the bottom of the tub. Once again climate is a big factor. A quality spray bomb one will work. Or as another poster suggested, spray some undercoat on it. My Cj-5 already had some on it (undercoat), so I'm just reapplying some more.

good luck!

 

I've used the undercoating on 3 that I have painted 2 of mine one for a friend. Painted over undercoating with body color on 2 of them the oldest has some road chipping but its easy to touch up have't had to do so much. One has done very well for over 10 years. Gonna use rust encapsulator next time .

 

Use the "hard hat" enamel from rustoleum. I painted mine with the regular paint and it chipped off with a little help from sand and ricks. The hard had paint went on about two years ago and still looks new. When it's clean that is.

 

I've used Rust Encapsulator, and it works well. Seems to stick really well, and doesn't need to be top-coated (unlike POR-15).

 

POR 15 is meant to be used as a primer, just a basecoat, it is not UV resistant, any sun and it will peel off and rust through. If you use it, make sure you paint over it and it will last longer. Cheaper way, use rustoleum enamel out of the quart, spray cans seem to be too thin and within a year or so pin holes will start to pop out.

 

I've never had a problem with the rattle cans as long as you do a good job in the prep work. The wire wheel on an angle grinder is an excellent way to prep. I use Ace Hardware's Rust Stop primer and paint. I works well for me...I have no complaints. It makes for easy touch-up if necessary