replacing floor of early cj5

Has anyone got any tips on replacing the rusted out floors of a 1971 cj5. I was planning on removing the floor pans where they are spot welded together. I will be using Classic Enterprises replacement parts. What am I getting into?

Julius

 

Front floors or back or both? Replacing the supports underneath (hat channels) as well? I've never used their replacement floors. I made my own once. I made the replacment floor pan first, then used it to mark the old floor for removal. Drilling out the spot welds can be a bear. Get a drill bit made just for this or, a unibit works fairly well.

 

Thanks. It depends on how the front pans go. I may replace the back floor also.

 

I replaced the whole front floor and transfers ledge support. I can walk you through it.

 

I plan on starting that phase of the restore when al the snow is gone and it gets warmer. I will definitely need your expertise thanks.

 

I was looking under the jeep the other day (in my spare 10 minutes last weekend!) and decided I'll be replacing the floor too in mine, as there is A LOT of rust and no floor of the toolbox area. I'll have to keep an eye out on what you gents have going.

 

I will be watching this thread closely, so please post lots of pics.

My floor and back are pretty good, but I do have some rust holes. I need to determine if I should be patching or replacing. Watching this thread should help be get an idea of what it takes to replace. Either way, this is not something I am going to address anytime soon, so for now, I will sit back, watch, and learn!

 

One thing I want to being up. Required tools to do this job.

Welder
90* Dotco (air tool) with 3" cut off wheels/ sanding discs.
Good spot weld cutter
Body hammer and Dollys.
PPE equipment.
Box of hex head sheet metal screws. (I forget the size, but it requires a 1/4" socket )

Did I miss anything?

 

"Did I miss anything?"

Fire extinguisher(s)?

 

Did I miss anything?[/QUOTE]


Lots of patients!!!!

 

Some panel holding clips will really speed things also. Eastwood sells a cheaper version of these Cleco clips.

These use 1/8" hole and will suck the panels together.

 

Subd.

 

These are the other type of Cleco's that use a special pliers that come in either 1/8" or 3/16" diameter hole size..............squeeze and insert the Cleco and it holds the panel in place for quick fitting and then later welding or as the aircraft industry would have done to insert rivets or machine screws.

 

Well I have been doing a little wire wheel work to see how the rivets are spaced and to see if they are fairly easy to expose. I called Classic Ent. and talked to a guy about what they have for the floor area. There was some confusion on which floor pan I would need. The ones for the 1971 are made with a hole under the drivers seat where a gas tank would go. I explained to him that my gas tank is in the rear. He thought that I had the same floor as the 1972. I now know that the hump in between the 2 foor panels is not available from them but I think mine is fine. I noticed on the passenger side floor near the storage comp there is a factory square hole cut out, what is that for?

 

There is a square hole in the center hump that is for PTO shifter access. I don't know about a square hole on the passenger side.
When I did my floors on the '69 I made my own partial panels from 18 ga. To drill out the spot welds I just used a 5/16 drill, and was careful not to drill all the way through. Once the drill cut to the depth where it was cutting the full 5/16 diameter, I could use a chisel to break the remaining spot weld.

Don

 

This is going to be a fun build . Will be watching.

 

Done need those. That's what the cheap sheet metal screws are for.

 

These clamps are supposed to be good for butt welding sheet metal - http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-butt-welding-clamps-44751.html

They come and go from Harbor Freight - Eastwood sells a more expensive set.

If you have overlapping joints, I'd think the sheet metal screws would work fine. Or punch holes and spot weld with your MIG welder.