Remote brake reservoir

I just replaced the single reservoir master cylinder on my '66 cj5 to a dual reservoir master cylinder. Now I would like to install a remote reservoir on the firewall. My idea is to install fittings into the cap and run lines up the firewall to a plastic reservoir. The main concern I have is that the reservoir will leak due to it becoming over filled. Has anyone tried this or have a better idea? I would prefer to not have to buy a complete remote reservoir kit with a new master cylinder since I just bought the dual m/c. I guess this is where planning ahead comes into question. Any ideas or advise would be appreciated.

 

I have done this two ways: 1) machined an aluminum, o-ringed base for a salvage yard plastic reservoir, and 2) bought a Wilwood kit because I also needed a clutch master cylinder.

As long as the dual master has a good seal on the lid, it will not leak and there should be little danger overflowing the remote reservoir as you will only need to fill it enough that you can see there is some fluid in it.

First pic is salvage yard reservoir, second the Wilwood



In the above pic, if you look over the "throttle body" you can see a second salvage yard remote reservoir that I use for the winch brake.

I think you can get the Wilwood reservoirs without buying a whole kit.
Wilwood numbers:
Remote mounting bracket 250-3381
O-ring for above 210-3397
Large reservoir (as in the above pic) 260-5751
Small reservoir 260-5752
Cap 330-4355

 

Is the advantage to a remote reservoir having extra fluid capacity? In a properly functioning brake system there would be no need for it, correct? If it is just increased capacity/redundacy because it can be done, well I understand that too.

 

Purpose is to make it easier to fill and check level.

I used a clutch master cylinder reservoir from a GM truck like an S-10 iirc. Firebird/Camaro from the 80's/90's work well too. Mine is a single reservoir mc currently but should not be an issue with a dual reservoir as long as you have a good seal as was said. May have to extend the fitting with a pipe down through the m/c seal so the fluid goes directly into the reservoir and doesn't puddle on top of the seal/gasket.

 

x2
an 87 chevy s-10 clutch reservoir
cheap, small, built in mounting tabs, and has the seal between the fluid and allows an airgap

 

Thanks for all the info. Duffer, both those set ups are great looking. I was planning on just using brake fluid resistant rubber hose to barbed fittings.

 

Here is a couple of photos of the one I used on my 2A conversion. In order to avoid the MC seal I taped into the upper edge of each reservoir. To keep both reservoirs separate I used a dual reservoir remote.



Maybe this will at least give you some more ideas.
Tommy

 

On a previous set up I had I used a reservoir similar to johnsotd's above. It was an old VW bug application if I remember correctly, from EBay. It was cheaper to have it shipped to my house than my time and gas to go to the junkyard.

 

Thanks for the pictures. I had thought about drilling and tapping the side of the reservoir, but was concerned about not being able to get it threaded correctly. Looks like thats the best way to go. I bought a remote reservoir off ebay but its only got a single outlet. I figured I would use a splitter before the lines get to the m/c. Now all I have to do is pull the m/c and retrofit the fittings into it. Sure would have been easier to do when I first did the conversion. R)

 

As I see it, the purpose of the dual reservoir remote is the same as the dual reservoir MC, to separate the front and rear brakes in case of a failure. With a single reservoir remote it may be difficult to determine where a problem is. Just my .02 worth.
Tommy