Hyro clutch in CJ.... Will these parts work?

I will venture to say it was not the best mod I have done, but it works better than before. I used a Wildwood pull type cylinder with a custom bracket for the T-18 and a Wildwood large reservoir master cylinder operated with the stock swinging pedals. It took a lot of adjustment to make it work correctly and I feel there could still be more improvement. Personally I prefer the feel of a manual clutch for everyday driving but the stars have to align for it to work well off road. Even before the frame crack and worn linkage it was only marginal off road. The hydro has solved those problems even if it doesn't have the feed back I prefer.

 

If I got a new slave from a 1980 CJ5 with a 2.5L, Can I get just about any master? Should the bore size be the same, or does it matter?

 

I believe they should be the same bore. I would get the same master that jeep used with that slave cylinder. FLAPS should have one or be able to get you are part number. Also Parts Mike on the web sells it as well. I think several members have used that set up with good results.

 

I have a hydro in my 6 but thats cause I had none of the original linkage to start with (PO changed engines) You definetly need the cylinder to be the same size (i.e ratio 1:1) I used the slave off a later hydro jeep, and used a Girling remote slave cylinder (0.875), that way you can mount the fluid cup anywhere (in the engine bay) as they can get caught on the diaphram of the brake booster (size dependent). As for positioning the clutch master cylinder I removed the brake booster and matched the centre lines of both, then drilled the necessary holes for the master cylinder, I'm using standard intermediate pedals so I just positioned the pedal in the correct stationary position (same level as brake pedal) and then marked the clevis pin position once the shaft of the master cylinder was level. I have a T150 trans/AMC bellhousing so it has the correct bolt holes for the slave on it however, I found the the slave clashed with my Hedman headers (AMC 360) so to reslove this I clocked the slave up one bolt hole on the bellhousing and welded a new section to the clutch fork so it was still level pushing. You will also need an adjustable slave cylinder push rod. You need to push the slave cylinder pistion as far back as it goes and push the clutch fork ( by hand) until there is no slack in the system. Mine works great, but it is still a heavy clutch pedal, my wife hates it but with the V8 you are not changing gears often.

 

I use the CJ master/slave combo so it's almost 1:1...I believe the master is 13/16" and the slave is 7/8". I did have to lengthen the pushrod of the slave to get my clutch to release properly, but it seems to work really well now. Although I've only been on the road with it for a few weeks. Before that I was considering a slave swap to an early Toyota FJ which is 3/4", which would have given me a little more throw at the slave cylinder.

I have the T150/176 bellhousing with T18 installed. That way I didn't have to muck around with any additional slave cylinders brackets, it just bolted on.

I would highly recommend reading the Novak link that I posted above in response #2. It is very informative.