What's better than knuckle puddin.......no puddin

Not enough room for ball bearings. Maybe Torrington. Earrings like a 30 or 44 spindle use. The issue here is the thrust washer. 30 and 44 outer axles have a step and use either a bronze thrust washer (early) or plastic/Teflon thrust washer to control endplay.
Unfortunately I've see. The results of lack of lube on the closed knuckle spindle bushings on many customer vehicles.
If I have time in the. Ext week or so I'll try and take some measurements and see if the Torrington. Earrings can even work. That would still leave the thrust washer problem but maybe something can happen. My issue is time, or lack thereof.


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would bearings here move enough to keep them selves lubed or would they just just wear on one side unevenly?

 

I appreciate everyones' input. Thanks guys. I believe the large brass collar on the spindle maybe smaller than what I assumed. Service manual shows that as seperable part on the exploded view though I have not seen em apart. I have an uncle who is a mechnical engineer(and car nut) . He is helping me brainstorm this issue. Chuck, which bearings are you referring to?

 

your sealed kingpin bearings how will they evenly displace the lube that is in them without turning do they turn 360 when during the course of thier work or will they only turn for example 180 degrees putting all the wear on one side of the individual bearings. i may be asking a dumb question here cause I'm no engineer but the old style which gets lubed via a different source ( slinging the knuckle pudding) versus your sealed bearing which in theory is made for the inner race to turn on a shaft while the outer race is stationary or visa versa. The bearings turn providing the lubrication to be displaced evenly providing the necessary lubrication. Hope that made sense

 

Gotcha. I figure if you pack em like a wheel bearing, then the grease will follow the rollers. AFIK these bearings never turn a full revolution but i think they do roll on their races. I think they should last a long time if they can stay lubed and dirt free.

 

personally I would be game for a set, but the quality must be there.
If I went this route, It would need a grease passage in the cap so a grease zerk could be installed.
after a month of setting, you can give it a pump of grease and not have a dry bearing while wheeling.
I have had a hard time beleaving if you lock the hubs and drive fast enough you get the knuckle pudding deep in the upper bearing.
I would still run a wet knuckle for the u-joint and i think the lowers will be better with true grease over a mix with gear oil.

 

I have yet to hear back from the vendor. As I understand this product, thevendor buys a bearing and then through a proprietary process bonds the seals to the bearing. I have ordered one of the cart bearings and will comment when it arrives. I can ask if he will use bearings that we supply( if there is no special channels etc.).

 

I just changed my king bearings/races. I packed them w some castrol syngrease ( the blueish teal color) then to fill the knuckle I used the same grease cut a bit til it flowed like cold maple syrup I cut it with castrol syngear 90/140. I am very happy with new seals and felt there are no leaks and it's just thin enuf to sling it on the top king bearing

 

Synthetic grease is another reason I think this "upgrade" is doable. Unless I am mistaken, the 27a axle is basically the 25 axle or its precursor (1930's at least). The grease seals of the time were leather and the lubricants were not as sticky nor as effective. Thats probably why you are supposed to service then biannually. I think sealed bearings to keep the crud out and good lube in will be a good combo.

 

I did receive one of the cart bearings. Seal looks to be well bonded to bearing cup. Based upon my poll numbers, it doesn't appear that there is enough interest to make an order feasable. Thanks to all that have posted. AM