T15 rebuild

Is it normal for oil to seep around the countershaft hole at the front of the transmission? There doesn't seem to be a seal over or around it. When I pulled my transmission the second time, the front of the case was oily around the countershaft hole. So, I know it's not coming from the bearing retainer seal or gasket. I get a few drips when the fluid warms.

If it leaked before the rebuild, that must have been part of the source of the oil in the caked-on mud all over the transmission and transfer case.

 

Common issue if the case has wear in that bore. The counter gear shaft should be a slight interference fit into that bore. I put a light coat of sealer in the bore to seal it before I drive the counter gear shaft all the way in. This seals any imperfections in the bore or shaft. If the bore is worn however the case needs replaced.


Sent from my iPhone

 

Other than finding a NOS case (which I have but it's expensive to ship) how would be the best way to go about getting a good used one with very little to no wear in the bore? Would someone like R&P (or others) test/check it before shipping? There are no Jeep scrap yards near me to pick up one and not pay for shipping. I'm not bothered about it too much right now, and I'm not going to tear it back down and swap cases at this point. I'm curious and open to finding a "perfect" case to have for a later date.

 

Are all T15 cases the same (interchangeable), no matter the casting numbers listed by Novak?

"The T15 may have the following casting numbers: T15 or 1307, or 13-07-065-901 and these are typically found on the passenger's side."

 

Yes, all the same. Jeep PN 991011.

Check that the case is obviously worn and not just leaky. See Nick's post above.

If I really needed a case, and if I could find an NOS case, I would buy it. With used parts, you negotiate the terms of sale with the seller. For example, you could find a transmission on carpart.com and either have it sent to your local yard or go and get it. You need to make sure that the seller will accept a return if the case is no good. Usually yards will sell parts that are good, usable condition, and will make good on the sale somehow - but if it's an "as-is" sale, it's yours. U-pull-it yards usually have a "no cash refunds" policy - you can bring the part back, and get another one, until you find a good one. Ask and make sure you are ok with the terms of sale before you buy.

 

I swallowed hard and bought one of the 5 NOS cases a fellow on eBay has. $99 plus $100 shipped from Turkey.

 

The case got here today. I'm shocked because estimated delivery was June 15.

 

I've been doing misc things while waiting on some shafts I wanted to replace when I swapped the guts over to the new case. Check out the letters on the end of this Crown reverse idler shaft:

 

Finally got my replacement countershaft, which is made in the USA as well

 

Question, when I was in my t15 the first time, I noticed a few chipped teeth on my cluster gear. Is that something to worry with getting another one? A new one is around $200, and I'm sure a good used one is up there in price as well. After it was back together, it ran smooth with no noises. What do you think? I hope to pull my transmission again this weekend to swap over to my new case to do away with the leak. If I need to have no chipped teeth, I'd like to swap in a cluster then.

 

Got a cluster gear on the way from R&P

 

It's disheartening when the stuff is in the new case, ready to tighten down the nut, you flip the transmission over, and one of the needle bearing washers fall out.....

 

Ok, with the old case the old countershaft was easy to punch out with a hammer and punch, hence the oil leak at the countershaft hole. Now, with a new case and new countershaft, taking this this back down to put in the bearing washer is a pain. I've got good interference fit now because I can't punch the shaft out without marring it. With no access to a press, how do I get it out? Is there a c clamp large enough off the shelf at tractor supply to fit around the case? My 6" clamp and ball joint press are way too small.

 

Brass drift punch

 

Thanks. That worked after some heavy pounding with a hand sledge.

But if there's not one thing, there's something else...when I installed the lock plate the first time, it was slightly loose, so I hammered both the reverse idler shaft and countershaft to snug the lock plate. Apparently when I did, I overdrove the reverse idler shaft and pinched the lock plate. This led to shearing the lock plate in the groove of the reverse idler shaft when I drove the countershaft back out. Using the brass punch set inside a socket and duct taped to an extension, I have drove and drove and I can't get the reverse idler shaft to back up the 1/32" to 1/16" to fully expose the groove to install a new lock plate. I did grease the shafts upon installation...

 

Still can't get the reverse idler shaft to back up the small amount. Driving a punch at an angle doesn't give the full blow it needs. Can it be driven into the case from the rear? Or is there a taper?
On Novaks site for a t90, it says to drive it forward to break it free the drive out the back.

 

I've got me a 3/4" diameter x 12" long brass drift on the way I ordered from Amazon that will be here Tuesday. Hopefully it will do the trick since it is bigger and longer.

 

Ups just dropped the monster 3/4" brass drift off 5 minutes ago and I was able to knock that reverse idler shaft back with it!