clattering after rebuild, need help.....

my Haynes manual shows a notch in the rocker arm shaft that has to be aligned correctly, it is on the front right bank shaft and the back left bank shaft are these correct? it appears from the picture they face the valve side of the rocker at about 45 degrees

 

A piece of flexible tubing in one ear will lead you to the leak, if there is one.

 

I'll second that....exhaust leak..

 

yes i did put some pressure on the rockers, pushrod side, and no it didnt change the sound any to my ears.......

yep so does mine, and thats what i hoped was the problem, but unfortunately for me i had them lined up right, lol. but thank you.........

as for spark plugs, they are all tight, i wish it were that.....and there is no exhaust leak anywhere under the hood......

and no actually the microphone on my new phone does a very good job of picking up and reproduceing the sound, its a pretty prominant "clacking" noise.......

 

heres another longer video.....

[video]http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w228/janfran03/?action=view&current=VIDEO0003.mp4[/video]

 

I agree with Warlock, the intake valve on #1 cylinder does not appear to move as much as the other valves which to me would indicate excessive valve lash. Patrick's test should have proved this though if that was the case.

 

Doesn't really sound like a rattle like something is loose. Could the timing chain and gears be off a tooth causing a knock like a pre ignition knock?

 

FYI, I rebuilt my motor several years ago and installed a new timing chain and gears as part of the rebuild. After the rebuild, I had a clatter. Originally I thought it was an exhaust leak at the heads, but it wasn't. I then thought it was in the valve train, it wasn't. I then installed an HEI thinking it was in the distrib housing, still no change. Well, last year on the Rubicon, I asked about a dozen people who I knew where familiar with the 225 to listen to the noise and give me their opinion. Several of them thought it was the timing chain. I just recently got around to taking a look at the timing chain tension and, gues what, it was way loose!!! I just replaced the timing chain and I have a quite, well-running jeep again!! It may be worth the time to take the fuel pump off and check the tension on the chain to see if it could be contributing to your issues.

 

maybe something wa dropped into the intake accidently that wont pass the valve, like a nut.

 

On the same lines, the #1 intake spring didn't look right. Two quick things that can be done to gather info, one a compression check, if it isn't exchanging charge sequence you might see a discrepancy in compression. Then a leak down, that will point to and mechanical issues that interfere with holding the charge, stuck or bent valve, etc... Just more info and easily done.

 

well i am in the process of pulling the front of the engine off cause i found out that i am not getting any oil to the head on the drivers side, so i am guessing there is something wrong with the cam bearings, which is not allowing the lifters to get fully pumped up, because even when i pour oil over the rockers the noise doesnt change, i will keep ya posted........

and yes i noticed the #1 valve spring after i watched the video too, but even when i put pressure on it the noise is still consistant.

 

Well it appears as though my buddy put the front cam bearing in upside down, so it wasnt allowing oil into the drivers side head or lifters. So my cam bearings are all cook, luckily the cam looks good still. So now i am gonna order a set of the grooved cam bearings from TA Performance and go from there, not to happy bit **** happens and glad i still have the chance to kake it right. THANK YOU ALL for the help and guidance, i will keep ya all posted as to ky progress.........

 

Man that is the shizzles. Glad it didn't wipe out the cam..

 

Well, it looks like my guess was close to right after all. Glad you found the problem without losing too much in ruined parts.
When you put it back together, one tip I saw someone else mention that I also like is putting your lifters in a pan with oil. Stand the lifters up, get the oil level up to the little port in the side of the lifter, and you can use a pushrod to cycle the lifter a few times to fill it with oil before you install them.
You also might want to check the installed height of the valve tips. These engines have no lash adjustment available, so the installed height has to be within spec or you will get either clatter from excessive valve lash clearance or worse yet lose compression from the valve lash being to tight and the valves can't close all the way.
Don