Power Lock "lock-right" in front axle of vintage jeep???

Any thoughts on the wisdom of installing a lock-right in the Dana 25 of my M-38? Being an older guy (and thus having reduced testosterone levels I won't be crawling over boulders with this jeep, but I'd like to make sure I have plenty of traction when I am miles away from civilization. I have a powr-lock limited slip diff in the rear (Dana 44). I have a Dana 25/27 powr-lock which I am trying to install in the front, but having problems. Just wondering if maybe the best and easiest way to go for the front axle would be to install the lock-right.

Opinions from anyone with personal experience having a lock-right in the front end would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Jordan

 

So, what is the problem with installing the Dana powerlock? It is a better unit!

 

VHUnter:

Well, that is the question: is the powr-lok a better way to go? I guess, put another way, since it is a limited slip, will it still give could traction to both wheels relative to a lock-right, which will lock-up both wheels? My understanding is that the powr-lok will give you a torque bias ration of about 5:1, meaning, that at whatever amount of torque the slipping wheel slips, the powr-lok will transfer 5 times that amountg to the gripping wheel. Of course, the lock-right will lock both up solid. I guess what I am looking for is reassurance that powr-loks front and rear is going to give me outstanding traction off-road----assuming I can get my install problems worked out. (Problem with my powr-lok is a long story---bascially it is a 27 carrier in a 25 adapter and I am having fitment problems.)

Jordan

 

I have a lock-rite in a dana 25 and it works flawlessly. However, I would recommend the twin stick setup, so you can switch to 2-Low when turning because the locked front wants to "push" rather than turn. So, I just switch to 2-low, turn, and then back into 4 wheel.

I have never had a powr-lock, so I cannot comment on those. The lock-rite is a simple/easy install.

 

That is what I am looking for: someone who is running the Powertrax up front. So, is the turning problem so bad that you have to go back to 2 low whenever you are turning, no matter how slight the turn?? I assume you are very pleased with the traction. What are you running in the rear?

Thanks,

Jordan

 

I've had a Lock-Right in my D27 for 6-7 years now. I has served me well. Sometimes I can feel it not wanting to turn. I wouldn't say that was a problem. Just different behavior from different equipment. I do have power steering.

I figure you'll be happy with either.

 

I've got one in my 27, still mid build so I have not tested it out yet. I did however go to a twin stick as well as the trails in and around TN tend to be pretty tight and I expect turning issues but I also have PS.

BUBBA

 

I have power steering as well. You can still steer, just not gonna make a sharp turn with it in 4 wheel. The wheels turn, but the jeep still tries to go straight.

I am running the powertrax "no-slip" in the rear. It is really nice, because it is quiet. The lock-rite does make some chattering when turning. The "no-slip" is quite a bit more expensive and I think they do not recommend it in the front.

 

I’d get that Powr Lok working personally.
What problems are you having with it? There are enough guys here with experience with installation/setup that if you post pictures and describe your situation they can likely get you going again.

 

both will effect your turning radius, but the power-loc will be more more rodable. unless your going to do serious crawling I would do a locker up front. it also taxes your small front axles then with the possibility of all the torque going to one axle. Run a power-loc in the rear, and put the extra cash into a winch.

 

Well guys, I just scored a recently rebuilt Dana 25 powr-lok. I am going to put that in instead of the bastardized hybrid 25/27 I was trying to use. Anyone want to buy a Dana 27 Powr-lok with a 25 conversion kit (By Herm's Overdrives)? Clutch pack is new!

 

Glad you found what you needed! Please post up you for sale stuff in the classifieds


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I'll get it posted this weekend.

 

Hey, Jordan. I realize its been awhile. Did you sell that D27 and conversion kit? I may be interested if you still have it, or even components of it. Please let me know as soon as possible.
thanks, greg

 

Ditto...

 

Or if you have hubs you can unlock one in the twistys then engage both for the ruff stuff. This still gives you some front wheel drive in the turns...as long as the wheel you have selected to engage is the one that stays on the ground.
For some one that just does mild off roading and is doing it on the cheap I would start with lock-rite in the front.
Please note however I had a properly installed lock-rite explode...driven only by a 4 cylinder engine with stock tires. It was in the rear end of a jeep that had a "c clip" retainer. With the lock-right destroyed we were only able to pull the jeep 10 feet before the axle with the wheel started to walk out from the jeep. At 15 feet the wheel was about a foot out from the jeep. The only way I got my jeep off the mountain was that I had the original diff parts with me in a can. Not only was I able to keep the wheels and axles attached to the jeep with the stock parts, but I was able to drive again! Never leave home without the original parts you replaced, in case this cheap little locker explodes.

 

I currently have Power-Locs both front and rear. With limited slip differentials the trick is to bring the RPMs down and allow the differentials to work. High power and speed do not give the Power-Locs time to load the clutches effectively . When climbing a hill in loose rock the Jeep will sometimes almost stop, then surge forward as the clutches apply torque to the side with traction. Lockers are much more positive but, they put a greater load on drive train components. I think a rear locker is a thing of beauty, and one rear locker has the traction of two Power-Locs. (my opinion) A locker both front and rear can really stress the drive-train, especially if you have a heavy foot. A front locker can make it hard to unlock your hubs, because it loads the axles, and it can make your Jeep somewhat reluctant to turn (like side-hill driving and turning uphill) though changing driving technique can fix that problem most of the time. Two lockers will make your Jeep nearly unstoppable, but I like the idea of something like a select-able E-Locker in the front.

 

I have a Lock Right in the REAR of my 2A. No plans for a front locker. I do not like them in the front. The Lock Right is not selectable - always on except when you disengage front axle drive. Too much damn trouble for me.

I have selectable lockers in my Landcruiser (80 Series) and seldom engage the front diff lockers -- just too tough to drive, even with power steering. I do use the rear locker often.

 

I have a lock-rite in my 30 and a Power-trax in the 44 ,I have no problems with each . I have been abusing them since I installed them 10+ yrs ago . I have PS and 35's and rock crawl on big rocks . I never run the front end on pavement and I guess I'm used to the plowing because I have never felt it in my 6 on the trail ,it does turn like the Titanic though. I do get an occasional bang out of the 44 that makes people turn around on the street. you never feel them lock on the trail and they will pull till the jeep falls over no problem

wait I re read your post ,,,,what's wrong with the power lock ? if your not heading to the boulder pit a power lock will work great,and you already have it .

 

I put a Lock-rite into the dana 30 in the front of the wife's Jeep. I was a little worried about her driving it in snow as I had heard that they were not snow friendly. It drives excellent in both snow and ice situations though. It has no problem turning at all. Does have Saginaw power steering. No noticeable decrease in turning radius at all. It is an automatic though, so maybe with a standard trans it is easier to bind up the drivetrain.