buick engine mounts

I was looking around for engine mounts for installing a buick v6 into my jeep. I found these on the advance adapters web site.
http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/buick-231--38l-v6-weld-in-engine-mount-kit/

How close are they to the factory dauntless mounts?

 

Well, they look completely different...
but I'm sure they'd work fine.

 

Tried to send a photo of my motor mounts, but doesn't work sorry.

 

I made my own mounts when I did my engine swap, they ended up looking almost identical to those. They look like they will work very well IMHO.

 

I got a pair of Buick V8 motor mounts from NAPA in March, 1977. They are doing fine so far. They were heaver than the originals. Unfortunately, I didn't record any numbers.

 

The AA mounts work great, i bolted mine in and no problems so far, of course it only been a week since i fired it up.
No unusal vibrations.


Good luck, just make sure you measure 3 times and then weld or drill once

 

A directory on your PC won't work. You have to host it somewhere online where the picture can have an IP address, like Photobucket or Picasa.

Sometimes your ISP gives you a web account where you can host things like pictures. If they give you space for a web page, you should be able to host pictures there.

 

Excellent pix. Looks promising I think I will go with these mounts for an easier install..

 

Make sure you follow the instructions from the AA Website.

Regards
Terry

1. 1 713047 FRAME BRACKET ​

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(Passenger Side)​

2. 1 713048 FRAME BRACKET ​

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(Driver's Side)​

BUICK 225/231 V6 - JEEP UNIVERSALENGINE MOUNTS​

The Buick V6 motor mounts are designed to be similar to the factory Jeep V6 mounts used on vehicles 1966-71. Thesemount must be used in conjunction with Buick engine rubbers, No. 25504647 and 1258666. The driver's side of thenew mounts is approximately 2" shorter than the passenger side. This is to allow for the drive shaft clearance as it comesforward underneath the starter motor. By moving the new frame brackets to the front or to the rear, proper firewallclearance and engine location may be obtained. In some cases, the transmission crossmember will need to be movedin order to stay ion line with the new engine position. The engine rubbers must be bolted to the engine block using theoriginal bolts and the rubbers must be bolted to the new Advance Adapter mounts using the original 7/16"-14 x 3-1/4"long grade 5 hex head bolts. Once the engine is in position the new engine mounts must be welded into the frame rails.​

Before your final engine position is established, you should consider the following items:​

1. Firewall clearance.2. Oil pan & harmonic balancer clearance.3. Hood clearance.4. Radiator & fan allowance.5. Steering box and/or linkage clearance.6. Header/exhaust manifold clearance.7. Distributor accessibility.​

8. Starter motor clearance on front drive line.

 

Guess I had a senior moment. Forgot how to post a photo.

 

noahlon.. are those factory unmolested mounts?

 

Yes. I can get different photo angles if need be.

 

I have a pair of factory V6 mounts. They are still attached to the pieces of frame they were welded to. I just sectioned them off as the frame was shot. PM me if you want them. Also, I just had an un-happy experience with Novak's mounts. I haven't talked to them yet, but the plates that bolt to the engine block are 3/16" and both sides tweaked on a fireroad trail I just did. It was not any kind of rough trail by any means. They tweaked enough for the fan to slightly contact the crossmember. Seems like those plates should be at least 1/4". I straightened them out and made some 1/4" re-inforcing plates to beef them up. Engine mounts seem like the kind of part that you would over-engineer, not under-engineer.

 

I just got back in town after three days away. I'll snap a pic of the mounts tomorrow (Mon.)

 

Posimoto, I sent a message via pm.

 

Here are a couple of pics of my motor mounts. It was difficult to get a pic that showed the tweaked plates in any kind of detail. They are bent between the mount holes where they bolt to the block. I still haven't called Novak on this, but I'm sure it will be news to them. I have always been happy with their products in the past.

 

This pic shows it a little better. Red line is straight, more or less.