Making plumbing vs. buying plumbing - brake and fuel lines

OK, so it's time to start adding brake and fuel lines. First thought is to make my own. Buy the tools, by the materials, figure it out and get started.

But for about the same price or less, I can buy the generic lines at the FLAPS and bend them to fit. Already flared, with fittings etc. And I can get fuel and brake lines.

So make or by the lines. what should I do?

 

Long as you've got good tools, it's just as easy to flare your own, IMHO.

 

I did my own brake lines from scratch and I'll second using a good quality flaring tool. The best part about being able to cut your own lengths is that it gives you more routing options. I did my fuel lines with generic lines from the FLAPS and I had connections that ended up in awkward spots that were difficult to access...and still had to make cuts to certain pieces. Buy extra tubing for mistakes. When I did mine, I didn't order any extra and barely had enough. There's lines that I wish were slightly longer...

You can make a quick diagram so you know beforehand what fittings to order.

 

Taking plenty of photos before taking things apart is a very good idea. On my first build, I set enough time aside to remove and replace the lines in one day so that things were fresh in my mind. For the first time that I had done brake lines, it actually turned out quite well.

Try not to bend the old lines when you remove them to use as a reference. I agree that you should buy extra for mistakes.

 

thanks for the suggestions. I wish I had the chance to photo the lines. It's a bare frame and I've never see what CJ8 lines look like. If any of you have a pict and could post it up......

Other than that, I was going to look on CJ8.com and reference the CJ5. Just basically figure it out...

 

I used to flare my lines with an inexpensive flaring tool like the one below. I would need to put it in a vice so the tube wouldn't slide down when your flaring.
http://www.eastwood.com/tubing-flaring-kit-double-single.html

After the inexpensive one broke I bought the one below on sale for $150 shipped (wait for the sale) and worth every penny. I can flare a line in seconds and it comes out perfect every time.

http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html

 

How long ago did you get it at that price? $249 right now!mehh I'm in need of a good one.

 

Found this at Jegs http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/63030K/10002/-1?parentProductId=756203 and for $80 thought I'd give it a try. I can't justify $250 for a tool I will use just a couple times. From what I've read, with proper prep and taking your time, the kit should work fine.

I also ordered a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve. Since I am going from Disc/Drum to Disc/Disc it is my understanding the stock valve will cause the back brakes to not work right.

As of right now I plan on running a hydroboost that I'll get from Elliott on IFSJA or maybe a corvette MC. I'm starting to think the hydroboost is overkill but then again those that run it say it's the bomb. Still undecided. Still leaning to hydroboost. Can I over brake the jeep? I'd like to be able to put in in 4 low and have enough brake to stall the motor.

I'll also bend up the fuel lines. I found some picts over on CJ8 that shows the routing of the lines. Looks like everything is on the drivers side of the frame with an AMC v8.

 

I just picked up pre-bent stainless steel brake lines for my daughter's YJ. Sure, I've bent and flared my own lines at times. But, the pre-bent stuff, fits nice, it's teh right length, and it all goes together pretty darn well. Sometimes eaiser is better than less expensive, just my two cents.

 

Brown Santa came today!!

Flair kit, tubing cutter, tube bender, brass T fitting for rear axle and a Wilwood proportioning valve, adjustable of course.




And a big ol' coil of 3/16" tube and all the fittings.



I'll post up and let you guys know how it works. I'm going to start with the rear axle.

 

Is that steel tubing? I just bought a 25' roll of 3/16 from NAPA and looked at the label when I got it home, is says Copper/Nickel alloy. Should I use this for brake lines?

Don

 

Alright guys, I just got my new brake flare tool and it is SOOOOOO worth the money!!!! I've bought a few of the regular ones over the years and frankly they suck. They work sometimes but not usually and the times they don't work are when you don't have any extra line to spare.mehh

Here's the one I got, Exact same thing as the Eastwood one but $46 dollars cheaper! From what I can tell the Eastwood one goes on sale sometimes, (maybe even as low as $160-$180) but it was listed at $249 (plus tax and shipping) currently and they wouldn't budge on price. Got mine form Tooltopia:

http://www.tooltopia.com/k-tool-int...se&utm_term=KTI70081&utm_campaign=shopping_r1


Good quality tool, It's accurate and very quick. It takes way longer to cut the tube then flare it! Tried it on 5/16" as well and just as easy, you can't do that with the regular ones. If your plumbing a whole vehicle I'd say it's way worth the money, if your worried about the cost chuck it on ebay when your done and get your money back on it!

 

Thanks for the link. I'm going to try the new cheapie since it's new and I already have it. If it does not work, I'm gong to get one like you got. Thanks for the info. More than likely it just saved me 50 bucks.......

 

OK, its going to be line time soon...

i have all the fuel lines bought and the fittings... the brake lines are pre-bents with flares and fittings installed already...

fuel lines... single flare or double... 37* or 45*?

how did the tools from jegs work out?

 

[QUOTEI can't justify $250 for a tool I will use just a couple times. From what I've read, with proper prep and taking your time, the kit should work fine.
[/QUOTE]

If I can do it, anyone can. Just take your time and be anal about lining the tube up in line with the double-flaring tool. Make some practice flares. You'll be good at it in no time.

 

Fuel lines you can do single flare, brake must be double flare.

 

thanks Pete!

 

The key is prep, prep, prep with flaring the tube. Make sure it's deburred inside and out and make sure the cut is perfectly flat. I use a small flat file for this. I also put a slight chamfer on the outer edge of the tube to make sure all burrs are removed.