Tie rod interference

From that one photo I can't see much of what's going on. I do remember an issue like yours when I installed Rancho 1" on my otherwise stock 3a. I cut the clamp and never had a problem with light off-roading. Once I started running harder trails. I swapped to different springs, and flipped the tie rod to top mounting. I bought the reamer at a hardware store for $20. I remember it was offered for something like $60 extra in a kit. I just bought the tapered bushing sperate. That is a nice beefy rod you got from Herm by the way.

 

Willysworker, any pics of your set up? I'd be very interested to see and read details of your tie rod flip. Kit available? Tapered bushing?

 

Thanks for the Pictures and the reply's. The way 57cj5 has set up the tie rod end looks like the way it is done on the stock TJ's. In Herms picture on his web site it is done the way I started to mock it up. As I see it the advatage to Herm's way is there would be no possible variation in toe in. One advantage to 57cj5 way is there is some additional clearance if the drag link goes slightly up towards the steering box, there might be a slight change in toe in as the axle moves but it cant be near as bad as the Ross setup and it was good enough for jeep in the 80's. The bushings for the tie rod over kit are very reasonably priced but I have not been able to find a reamer locally for under $80.00.

 

Herm has the bushings?

 

Not that I know of but this site does with or with out reamer.

http://ok4wd.com/shop-by-category/l...rod-kits/rock-equipment-tie-rod-flip-kit.html

 

That is where I got my bushings.

 

I got out to the garage today and re mocked the tie rode with the equivalent of a 5* shim. This will give a lot more clearance than I had imagined, about 3/4" with out any cutting. I here different opinions about the aluminum shims,has anybody had bad experiences. Phil

 

Use steel ... PM Mcruff - he can make any degree you want for a very reasonable price. Extremely high quality work.

He made these shackles and caster shims for me:

 

Thanks for your reply's. This is the clearance gained with a 3* wedge. Lots of space except during a hard right but still not touching. Phil

 

Just a comment after reviewing the photos here.
Of all the 1 piece tie rod conversions I've seen, and/or been involved with, the long tie rod would connect the two knuckles together, using the two hole or center tie rod end at the RH knuckle.
The drag link would then connect into the two hole or center tie rod end.
Is Herm's way different?
The photos show the drag link with the center tie rod going into the knuckle.
I've never seen the tie rod conversion done this way...
I'm just commenting, not being critical at all.

 

It must be the angle I took the picture from. The instillation is the way you describe it. The tie rod in the background connects the two knuckles, the tie rod in the foreground gos up to the steering arm. See Herms Picture.
http://www.hermtheoverdriveguy.com/id83.htm Phil

 

okay thanks

 

Phil, looks like your drag link crosses over the long tie rod. Is this case true? Mine was crossing over until I connected the long toe rod to the center hole in the RH tie rod and the drag link to the end hole in the RH tie rod. I would think the rods would hit/bind under flex and certain steering conditions (steering while suspension moves). I did Herm's conversion and spoke with him about the set up. He mentioned for my conversion, theat was the way to set up the tie rods.

 

I went with the Saginaw box which is in front of the tie rods, so as your steering gos to the ends of its travel the drag link and tie rod get farther apart. Phil

 

Drilled out the taper and dropped in a tapered sleeve that is then welded in place. This gives you high steer and helps level the tie rod with the drag link.
Go fer it products makes the sleeves.

 

Nice pic ralf!

Just for clarification, that kit gives you a "tie rod flip" or puts the tie rods on top of the steering arms. "Knuckle over" or "high steer" puts the steering arms and tie rods/drag link above the knuckle.

 

I've seen that kit but I wasn't comfortable enough with my welding to go that route. except for that it looked OK. Phil

 

I need someone to enlighten me. What is the advantage in using the tapered inserts over the old school method of brazing the the taper in the knuckle and reaming from the top side?

 

I guess some of us are not old school enough. My only objection would go back to not finding a reamer for under $80.00 and then only using it once. Phil