Need The Right Lift

I own a '74 CJ-5, WITH 33 12.50s. Still got the stock suspension , but the springs are starting to flaten out and the tires are rubbing when I turn it deep. Was trying to figure out if I could get by with a 2.5 inch lift ,or would I need to go a little higher to clear the 33s? Also, does anybody have any recomendations as far as lift kits go? Thanks for any help . Duke Smith

 

If the tires rub when you turn it deep then it may be more tire width than a lift problem. Lifts cure the rub when articulating, offset wheels and adjusting stops cure the rub when turning. At least that's my assessment, someone take over here if i'm off course. I have 33x12.50 with 3" Black Diamonds they were still rubbing on the front fenders soemtimes with the old 232 so I added a 1.5 body lift and we'll se how they like that with a 4.3 Chebby. Other will give you the results of their experience, mine's rather limited.

 

Thanks for your reply, I see what you're saying . I'll go see the local 4-wheel drive shop and let them take a look at my offset and go from there.

 

Im running a 4" lift on mine. Now given it's not on the road yet the backspacing on the rim will play a big part in the setup. The im Im going to run is 4" BS'd and may cause rubbing concerns. I ordered one up and am gonna mount it when it comes to see how it acts. Given I like the style of it I will probably run a wheel spacer to push it out a bit since they dont offer any other Backspacing options on it

 

Just looked under the "Tech References" and went to steering and suspension to find "Jeep Leaf Spring Dimensions". It reads...
Early cj front =36" x 1.75
Early cj rear =42" x 1.75
yj front=36" x 2.5
yj rear =42 x 2.5

Now this says for early,my jeep is a'74. 1974 is concidered intermediate, does anyone know if '74 springs are compatable with the yj? I've had a couple of people tell me that the extra width gives a better ride.

 

The springs on your '74 are not that wide. if you swap out the shackle hangers and frame brackets, you can use the YJ springs. I know there are some out there that have do this and I'm sure they will chime in. I'm going to build a custom frame for mine in the future and I will use the YJ springs (but they will be lift springs). Your springs are most likey 1.75" wide.

 

Yeah thats right, there 1.75. I'm wantin' to put a 2.5" lift on, if I go with yj springs what model yj do I order it for?

 

the YJ springs are too wide for your jeep. You can get 2.5" lift springs for a CJ and you will have no problem. If you want to put 2.5" YJ lift springs, you will have to repacle some brackets on your frame in order to get them to fit. As for what year YJ, I'm not sure. I think they actually changed width, but I don't remember if the later CJ's went to 2" wide springs and then YJ's went to 2.5" wide or what. If you are going to go to the trouble of all the bracket changes on the frame (which will involve some grinding and welding) then get the brackets and springs for the latest model YJ out there. That way, you'll be able to find replacements for a longer period of time.

 

If thats the case I'll just start looking for soom of the better brands of lifts and compare and go from there. A little better ride and stability where the two reasons I was looking at the yj set-up.

 

I seen where it said as seen in JP Magazine and 4WD& Sport Utility magazine. So I might pick back through some old JP Mags and go to JP.com and 4WD&Sport Utility.com and see what I can find out about the conversion kit. Thanks for the link.

 

One more option.. My bud ha a 72 CJ5 and mounted 33X10.5 tires mounted on it with no rubbing problems..

 

I did the YJ spring over on mine. I have not had a chance to drive it yet, but it is very obvious that is will ride much softer. Yes you will have to weld new spring and shackle hangers on. With this setup and I have a trial set of 35 x 12.50-15 with a 3 1/2" backspacing and they do rub the springs without being at full lock and I am runnig the narrow trac Dana 30 front. I will be switching to 34 x 10.50-15. They are not a common size. AFAIK Super Swamper is the only one that makes them. I guess my only other option would be to put a 1/2" spacer up front, but I don't really want to do that.

 

I run 33x12.5x15s I started with a 2" lift shackles. But had to trim the back fender well slightly to clear the back tires under extreme tuck. (See avatar for pic of shacles only) I eventually went to a 4" lift for the additional offroad frame clearance. I bought BDS springs and extra travel Highjacker shocks and brake lines. I like both BDS and Highjacker. Good service from both venders. They were willing to talk to me and gave me good advice of which types of their product to buy.

 

I love my setup -

Spring over
2.5" Atlas Springs
YJ Currie HD Shackles (boomerang rear)
Slickrock Shackle Hangers mounted outside of the frame (to accomodate the wider waggy 44's) Hanging the rear like that negates the need for the boomerangs - but they look cool - and I have I have 'em flipped just to see the response I get.

Decent ride - I still need to install a steering stabilizer and am fighting the urge to add a telescoping trac bar and sway bar setup (I just drive the durn thing on the highway too much to be so loose)

Sorry I don't have access to pics right now - but check my webshots addy and there may be a good view.

 

i run a 2.5" lift with 2" body, my 33's rub a tiny bit at full turn. i need to shocks, but other than that i have no real probs

 

Right now the plans are to put at least a 2.5" lift on this fall. If the 33" 12.50s still rub then I'll drop down to a 32" 11.50. And maybee that'll be enough. But for now I'm trying to figure out how to mount a Howes clutch slave cylinder. Push type in front of a T-14 transmission. One more on the to do list.

 

I have a 2.5" BDS lift kit on and your 32" solution is one of the ideas that I was heading toward. The other is 33" 10.5"s. Does anyone have the 33x10.5 setup? Do the tires rub?

Karl

 

I run a NT D30 front with 33x12.50's on 15x10 rims. No rubbing here except for the front fender lip at full tuck (need bumpstops) and on the rear inner fenderwheel.

Like Mike said, just adjust the steering stops out a little to prevent the spring rubbing. More than likely you will not even notice the difference in turning radius.