Dauntless Engine Enamel Paint

Do they still make it? Doesn't show up on their current website list.
http://www.duplicolor.com/products/colors/highheat.html

 

picked up a can about 8 months ago from Pep boys, pretty sure it was duplicolor. still have the can at home, will check later

 

Duplicolor Part number 88-00906, Color code BG11M, Hampsted Green, 1980-81 honda color.

 

Here is a picture of my motor from before I rebuilt it. The paint was definately metallic and it was a pretty close match to the Tulip green color. I painted mine Alpine green during the rebuild though.

 

Out of curousity I picked up a small can of that Hampstead Green on the way home to lunch. Must admitt that the cap color sure looks like the orig. I still have my old water pump with the original paint on it. Thought I might mask part of it off and spray that Hampstead Green on it so the two colors would be side to side. Might have to wait a day or 2 for the sun to come back as I would like to take the pic in sun light, not garage light if you know what I mean. That Hampstead Green even has that metallic look like the original. The original is not what I would call a true metallic, but there is something there that gives a hint of metallic. I am not a painter so don't know what to call it. Will post the pic when I get it.
Mike

 

POR 15 makes engine paint. If you go to there web site at www.por15.com you can view a color called Buick green. I'm pretty sure this is the color of the dauntless 6v because it looks right on to me.

 

Check post #17.

 

This is the Buick Turquoise Blue from POR. Pretty color, excellent product, but it's not the same as original. Perhaps the Buick Green they offer would be closer, but I doubt it. I have a feeling the Dauntless color was unique to the Dauntless. While I can't help w/ the code, I do know it was not a metallic paint, way too thin for that. I believe you would call it aluminized, uses a powdery additive for the sheen rather than metallic bits. View attachment 16397

 

I may see now why some would not call the Dauntless paint metallic. Are you saying that by adding a course metal flake it is then called a metallic paint but by adding a less course metal or powder it is not? All of the engine paint that I researched was either listed as metallic or just plain and the few metallic samples that I purchased all had the same small metal particles inside, powdery as you say.

 

I could show a picture of my V6 jeep engine but my color has too much light green. I wasn't sweating it as the jeep was a 62 and had a V6 conversion so the originality wasn't of great concern.
My buddy has a 71 w/ V6 and I'll see if I can get some pictures.

 

I picked up a can this morning. It's close but not quite a match in my opinion. I think it needs to be just a little darker with a shade of blue added.

Looking at Wyomike's pictures it seems that the color changes at little depending on where it's applied. The cast aluminum parts seem to be the lightest and the engine block looks the darkest. The valve covers are somewhere between the two. The same applies to my engine. Assuming the same paint is used throughout, what areas would be best to use for color matching?. I was thinking of taking one or both of my valve covers off to obtain a matched formulation. One of the automotive paint suppliers around here say they can provide the coding for future batches.

 

Paint is typically named for the main cosmetic additive in the mix. Pearls have crushed "Mother of pearl" added to the mix, metallics have metal particles in the mix (candies don't have candy though ). To be more correct when talking about metallics, size comes into play. Aluminized has the smallest particle size and produces an aluminum (or anodized) like sheen. Metallic is a medium particle size and most commonly used today. Metal flake is the big stuff seen in high end paint jobs and gel coat on boats.:v6:

 

I found a spray can of Duplicolor on the shelf at Autozone that I used for my oil pan and was almost a perfect match to my valve covers. Of course now I can't find the can to get the numbers from, but I know it was a Honda color and probably the same one $Sink mentions. It is also metalic and just a shade more green then the lighter samples someone had earlier in the thread.

Jim

 

OK here's what I did. I took my old water pump with the original paint and masked of a strip and painted it with "Hampsted Green". In the pics below the middle strip in the new and on each side is the old. I must admit that I am color blind somewhat, but it looks pretty close to me, even has the semi metal flake. It might be a little lighter shade, but remember the old paint is 36 years old and is dull and worn. I am thinking that maybe the lighter shade is because the new is so shiny and reflective. I guess everybody has to make there own decision. Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder
View attachment 16417 View attachment 16418 View attachment 16419

 

Mike, nice pic, and good illustration. the color is close enough that if the entire engine is painted with it you would have to be a real stickler to tell the difference. I can see why a person doing a 100point restoration would want to get to the exact shade, but my Jeep only contains about 65% factory parts at this point, it isn't worth the effort to have paint mixed to get closer. but to each his own. $.02

 

Mike - Thanks for doing this! Looks like the best match that I've seen so far. Very close.

 

Holy cow that looks close, especially in the 3rd pic. I'm going to give the ol' chip book one more try, then I'm going with "Hampstead Green," although I need to find a way to get it in my gun, not rattle can. Thanks Mike.

 

Mike, great job on researching this. I have been following this because I have a dauntless I will be painting for my CJ6 . The Hampstead Green is certainly close enough for my purposes. I am wondering how this paint will hold up on a hot motor though. Any thoughts on this? Again, hats of to everyone on this topic.

 

this paint should easily stay put at engine temps, the only part of the engine that should be reaching anything over 200 deg is the exhaust passage on the intake and the exhaust manifolds. most paints can take well over 200 deg without damage.

 

I would think you could get that much variance just with different paint lots. It looks close enough to me.

Jim