tractor enamel with a spray gun?

Does anyone know if you can use the Valspar Truck & Tractor Enamel (red can) from tractor supply with a gravity-fed spray gun off of a compressor?

I recently painted my frame with the Tractor & Implement enamel using a brush and mixed in some of the enamel hardener and it came out so glossy and nice I was thinking of getting their Truck & Tractor enamel for doing the body tub of my CJ.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Evan

 

Sure. Can should have instructions for thinning for spray. Other than that be sure to use a cannister type respirator and have plenty of ventilation (don't breathe the super glue).:v6:

 

It's worse than super glue. The hardener is isocyanate (a cyanide compound) and fairly dangerous. Use a respirator specifically for paint. Avoid contact with the paint or overspray with your skin or eyes. The pros use a full pressurized suit - covers everything - and a closed booth to spray this stuff. I would wear a full tyvek suit, hair cover, gloves and goggles at a minimum (plus the respirator). Some people can have an allergic reaction and may go into respiratory arrest.

Makes the paint really hard though.

 

isocyanate is real bad stuff. when using this stuff you are supposed to have an outside air source. Thats if you shoot this stuff for a living. I worked at a place where my boss would get his blood checked twice a year to check the levels of this garbage in his system. its no joke. Use ALL the precautions stated and dont do it where your family can't breathe this stuff. There are "safer" alternatives as well. Where did you say youre getting this paint, sounds like i want some!

 

I found the same type paint (different brand--Van Sickle) at the local farm and ranch supply. I'm planning on using it on my frame, with the hardner. Won't be spraying though, I'm just going to brush it on. Still going to take the safety precautions. Can't beat it for the price...about $25 a gallon!

 

Holy Toledo! I had no clue it was that bad!

 

Everything I've read says that, once catalyzed (hard), it's completely safe.

 

But it lasts a really long time and prevents rust pretty well too right?

 

Why not?

I believe they call for thinning with Acetone.

Use a good mask. I use a full face mask with replaceable filters by SAS.

Those paint fumes bother my eyes too, hence the full face. I have an old pair of glasses that I took the temples off of and it works fine.

Trim your beard, if you have one...

 

I painted a bike many years ago with Imron and didn't use a mask (just a "quickie" paint job ya know), I thought I was gonna die! My lungs were f'd up for years, and I think I still have breathing problems from that.

 

I've been messing around with this implement paint for a couple months now. I've been using all satin stuff, so this may not apply to guys wanting a gloss coat. Here's what I've found:

Frame - On a freshly blasted or wire-wheeled frame, spray on a couple coats of sealer/surfacer, then use a 1.8mm nozzle and the paint at full strength with 1pint of hardener to the gallon. I've found that a siphon gun works best for this, although it's more awkard to shoot at crazy angles around the suspension and axles. You want to do relatively light coats. It will appear like you're "hazing" the paint when you spray it, but it will level out in a few minutes and blend itself in. When it's finished in this manner, the result is near OEM. .

Body - I wanted to do my windshield in the satin black, but when I shot it as listed above, the finish turned out a hideous orange peel. I shot it again with the same results. I shot it with an HVLP, also with poor results. After experimenting quite a bit, I've found that using an HVLP with 1.4mm nozzle works good, but you have to reduce 2:1 with a good laquer thinner, mix it well in the pot, then add 1 pint of hardener to the gallon. You want to spray a "wet" coat and overlap by 50%. Don't go back and "haze" it.

 

Stop it! Your making me want to paint over the OD with a nice coat of red TSC paint!!