experienced 225 rebuilders

I am putting my piston/ conn rod assy's back in. In the Haynes manual it says all squirt holes on the side of the conn rod should be inboard. I have 1 or 2 where if I install the piston with the piston notch toward the front the oil hole will be outboard. Is this bad? Also, did the pistons get installed incorrectly at some point?

Josh

 

My machine shop guy assembled. However it may not be his fault. He may have gone by the notch in the previous pistons which may have been replaced by PO. Im not sure but thanks for info. Is that the only source of oiling for the cam?
Josh

 

On the 225 the rods should technically be numbered and specific to a certain bore.
More than likely Steve is right, someone installed a piston onto a rod backwards.
When the engine is up side down the grooves for the rod bearings should face to the outside of the block, the oil holes toward the inside with the notch on the top of the piston facing the front of the block!!

 

Both of my 225's have the rod numbered for the bore.

 

Well,
I rechecked them and they were ok. It was late, I must have got it backward. New problem however. I realized that I put one of the rings in upside down. When I took it out the new conn rod bearing had a groove in it enough to barely grab my fingernail. There must have been a piece of dirt I missed too. D---! I guess I'l have to get another new one.




Josh

 

Just as a word of advice, your engine building area should be cleaner than your wifes kitchen or the bathroom. I can never emphasize this enough.
When your done working for the time seal the motor in a garbage bag, if you don't have one that will fit, get one!!!! Do not use shop rags to clean parts, use old linen sheets or a lint free paper towel.

 

ME?, Not many Jeeps, but many engines from small two strokes to big block chevys, dirt is BAD, don't MIX THINGS UP.

Clean every thing like you'd have dinner off it, don't forget things like oil galleys (gun cleaning brushes work well) and other passages that pass oil. You will have to take out the oil plugs (block) to do this except on the crankshaft.

Be careful to organize everything before assembly, check clearances-twice. Think about how to go about things, fit this or that FIRST. Numbering parts in multicylinder engines is a good idea, even small things like stamping an arrow on a bearing cap(s), rods, pistons (some fit both ways and the clearances are different...or with some pistons thrust side), will let you install it with the correct orientation. Docement disassembley so if after a long night of assembley (maybe a few beers latter on.....)you can get back to where you left off without any back tracking without trepidation.

As said above don't let all that work go to waste, keep the dirt off it, rust too! Be careful with sealing sufaces, clean and spotless for gaskets/seals. Make sure assy is with proper lubes (e.g. GM assy lube for bearing surfaces is my choice) and coat other cleaned surfaces with anitrust. Now add cover for dust.....

Oh yea, things can fall/crawl (critters) into intakes/exhausts after you are done......plug that up before installation...................Hmmm starts sort of ..then dies.......whats those arcorns coming out of the headers...?????

GGOD LUCK!!!

 

Sorry, GM recommends Engine Oil Suplimemt (EOS) as assembly lube (same thing), my fault!

 

I did. I do use a garbage bag to cover. The problem is it only takes 1 stray piece of dirt that you can barely see. That aluminum is so soft too.

 

Uh huh. Bearing faces aren't aluminum though, AFAIK. They are some kind of zinc-tin alloy that is pretty soft, and backed with copper, again IIRC. They are intentionally soft to imbed dirt instead of scratching. The actual bearing surface is the film of oil between the journal and the bearing, so the soft bearings don't matter in terms of wear.

 

Babbitt is what most bearings are made of its comprised of [SIZE=-1] copper, antimony, tin and lead, very soft
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