1973 Cj5 Wiring Dia.?

I have found the 1974 wiring dia. here:
https://oljeep.com/edge_74_tsm.html

Is the 1973 wiring dia. the same? If not, can anyone point me to a good source for a 1973 dia.?

I'm looking for a dia. for the park lights/turn signals and the ignition from the switch through the coil.

If I can't find the dia. I'll start tracing but it sure helps to know where the wires go first.

Thanks.

 

timgr will Know for Sure.......I think that they're the same, though

 

1974 is close, possibly identical. If there are differences, I am unaware. Very few changes '73 to '74 (badges, smog, colors). Why not buy the TSM for '73? Cheap on CD-ROM from RockAuto. Or buy a printed copy - apparently cheap too. DOn't buy the Hayne's or Chiltons manual. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...cid+v8,1309441,literature,repair+manual,10335

 

Thanks for the info and the link, I didn't know the manuals were available.

 

I received the manual today and checked the tail light wiring against what is on the jeep.
The '73 and '74 diagrams are the same (at least as far as the tail lights go), I was missing a jumper on the left side that fed power to the right side.
Now I'm down to an inoperative left brake and turn signal. I'm afraid that may be in the turn signal switch.

 

Suggestion - Try contact cleaner first, both on the switch and on the connectors. Be liberal with it, and scrub the contacts.

 

Thanks for the idea on the switch, I hadn't thought to spray it down.
All the connectors have been cleaned twice now.

 

I would give the switch a good spritz and exercise it. Might help. SOP for old electronics stuff.

 

Thanks Tim, the left brake light and rear turn signal are working.
The left front worked once then stopped again, I'll check all the front connections and exercise the switch more.

 

I'll have to try this on the ignition switch too. It was starting fine for nine months, then the last time I went to start it it wasn't getting spark.

 

After monkeying with the front turn signal bulb I remembered the bulbs are a little loose in the sockets.
They work if I hold them just right, I think I need to make a shim for them.

 

I had some loose bulb sockets also and what I did was take a small worm gear clamp that fits over the socket and tighten it down and it did work real good. The bulb was firm going in and twisting into place it was solid. Remove the clamp when you are satisfied it is tight enough. Of course this is all done with a through cleaning of socket and contacts prior.

 

There is a spring under the contacts that pushes the base contacts and bayonet lugs into the socket. This should make contact, even if the bulb is loose around its diameter in the socket. You can buy a replacement part (a "pigtail") that will refresh the base contacts and spring. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NW_787107?r-src=SSE:PDP&ppid=NW_787109&ir=4&tps=4 I also found them on eBay. Petersen probably makes them too.

 

Thanks again Tim. I figured it might be the spring that was weak, I didn't know the pigtail was available to repair the lamp housing.

The bulb actually fits snug in the socket but the bayonets are smaller than the slots and the bulb contacts move off of the socket contacts.

 

30-40 years ago, every parts store used to have them. Today there are so many different bulbs and bulb holders that they are less common.

RockAuto has them at a decent price. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=635949&pt=4092&jsn=306 or https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4919103&pt=4092&jsn=309

I'd expect you can find them anywhere using these part numbers. Any parts store can get Dorman or Peterson stuff trivially.

 

The Oreilly Auto parts here has them in the Help Section aisle. Pigtail with spring.

 

This worked to revive my old tach/dwell meter as well. The poor thing had been sitting on the shelf since I used in on my CJ7 in , uh... 1997?