Ps Belt

Good time to know/discuss which boxes/models/years are fast ratio or slow?

 

This is the slow ratio Saginaw 800 box to get.
The genuine JeepCJ box embossed with a big “76”.
It came in 2 basic versions.
Pre 1980 with 45* inverted flare nut hose fittings.
Or the post 1980 with “O” ring hose fittings.

 

I got a 4 plus a little more turn steering gear. I think most of it is, the small size of a CJ. With the Jeep being light weight, the PS has little to no resistance in the system, so there is a quick reaction. Poster on the forum say they drive 65 MPH in there Jeeps. I felt unconfutable at 45 MPH. One more thing, driving a full size pickup or mid size vehicle and then driving the smaller CJ you will notice the steering reaction. I though about taking the PS belt off for around town driving but putting back on when you need it will be a PITA

 

I installed a short length pitman arm which slows the motion from the steer wheel.
So I actually have to turn the Saginaw 4 full turns in order to hit both steering stops.

 

I think the biggest reason people think PS is "twitchy" in a CJ is the short 80 or 81" wheelbase combined with a little slack (ok, more than a little in some cases) in the system. If the steering is properly designed and in good condition, it shouldn't be twitchy no matter what the ratio of the sector box is-unless you go to extremes. My 3B is 3.5 turns lock to lock and I think it's perfect on and off-road.

 

I'll have to double check but I think mine was about 3 1/4 turns.

 

What pitman arm did you use? I have the arm from a 76 and up CJ I think on my 2a, but I think it's a little longer than I want.

 

Do you know the diameter & spline count on the input of this steering gear?

 

What pitman arm did you use? I have the arm from a 76 and up CJ I think on my 2a, but I think it's a little longer than I want.

In this case I reused the factory CJ arm.
I modified it to fit.

The factory CJ Saginaw box was not mounted at a right angle to the tie rod.
My flatfender Saginaw box is at a right angle.
I took a small 3 point file and cut new notches into the factory pitman arm blind splines.
This way I was able to re-clock the pitman arm square to the tie rod.
The Jeep factory arm has excess flat area where the tie rod connects.
Next I moved the pitman tie rod hole by exactly 3/4” distance. Simple drill a tapered hole into that flat area and reshape/grind the original hole off from the end. The hole to hole spread is 5-3/4”when modified.

Another option is to buy a 1970's GM manual pitman with 1/2" of drop. (GM # ???????)
This arm is already clocked straight and the hole spread is 5-1/2”.

 

The CJ manual and CJ power boxes used different input diameters and spline counts.
If I recall correctly
Manual = 3/4” at 30 spline
Power = 13/16” at 36 spline

 

Mine is power, with 3/4 30 spline, but I don't think this is standard. I was surprised to be able to re use the same ujoint that I had on the manual gear.