Dauntless V6 Mini Starter

This starter works with the Dauntless 160 tooth flywheel.

 

I'm glad it worked out well for you too!

 

Seeing this thread for the first time and I'm wondering if it would solve my issue with Delco starters on my 69 dauntless. I do have a draw down issue to handle as well, maybe to both at the same time..

 

I finally pull the trigger I got the Powermaster 9202, love the sound it makes doesn't sound as clunky as the old starter and yes starts much easier.... Anyways thank you Norcal for this info and all the other info you put out for us on this site.....

 

Need a new starter on my 66’ is the tooth count the same? Summits got them in stock. Gonna go pick it up before they close.

 

Yep

 

Wish I had a Summits close enough for me to be able to walk in.....

 

Same.

 

I have a 225 flywheel and a 252 flex plate sitting here and both are 160 teeth.

 

So sitting here with the 9202 in my cart with Summit. Perplexed by the 153/160 tooth thing. I know the dauntless is 160 tooth. Is it irrelevant due to flywheel diameter or something? Seems it works for everyone though.

 

9202 sitting on the bench, installing tomorrow.

ll

 

The stock starter had both an ignition bypass and a solenoid stud.
Something to remember, if you have a bad or wrong one, the stock solenoid is replaceable. 2 mounting screws and a 1/4 twist and it is off.

I'm a big advocate of a Ford solenoid on the fender in lieu of the stock GM starter wiring which eliminates all the wiring going to the starter other than the main cable.

 

Correct.
I’ve had zero issues to date with this setup.

 

Mine is still going strong a couple years in.

 

I don't think there are any longevity issues with at least the quality mini starters. I installed one probably in the late 90's, when they just hit the market, on the 381 sbc in my 3B. It's still on that engine but as of last year, that engine is now taking up space on the garage floor. That was a McLeod unit. I bought another for the current sbc. As to the 153/160 or in the case of 153/158 tooth sbc flywheels, most of those mini starters will have two sets of bolt holes to move the starter towards or away from center to accommodate the different diameter flywheels. Usually no shims are required, the key word being usually. I had a CSI version that definitely needed some shims. As a side perk, a lot of those minis are clockable.

 

I agree. The only time the wire is hot is when the solenoid is energized.

 

I put one of those in a 60/70ish Winnebago a couple years back.
Big block Chrysler, had to clock the solenoid 45 degrees and kill the warranty but it fired that big old Chrysler no problem.
And was a whole lot easier to stuff into place than the original was to fenagle out.

 

Ayuh,..... That extra tiny stud is to feed battery voltage to the points, when starting,.....

After it starts, the points are fed lower voltage by the ignition circuit,.....

If ya got electronic ignition, it's unneeded,....

 

Start contact is integrated in the remote solenoid. The starter needs only one large wire that is only energized when the solenoid is closed.