‘59 Cj W/ Roxor Front Axle & Steering Linkage Upgrade

Mark up the image with the dimensions you need. I’m not sure exactly what you’re asking for. You mean the surface if you were to mount a wheel to, behind the lug nuts?

 

How To Order - Currie Enterprises

Measurement “A” under Measurement Example.

 

53-5/16”



None of the spring plates and u-bolts I’d ordered will work, so I’m trying to source the parts from Roxor, however that is proving to be difficult.

I sincerely apologize for the delay.

 

Throw the D27 back in and head for Rubicon.

 

Mine is 53 5/16"
Jay

 

cant.. she’s not roadworthy with the current Dana. Is why I’m doing the upgrade

Ooops. You’re right

 

Finally got the garage door resolved, at its not 100° outside….so….let’s dig into it



Remove winch mount and the bumper for repainting


Disconnect springs, tie-rods & drive shaft, remove brake lines, heave out the Dana 27. All very straight forward.


Install OEM 16” wheel on new axle. Fits fine. No clearance issues. Install Warn lockers, p/n 29062. $238 shipped, Amazon. (Best price I found). All straight forward, watched an install video on the YouTube. No challenges this far.
Lug nuts are 1/2-20. Sourced 20 from eBay for $15.79 shipped.


OEM brake lines will probably be too short, as I have a 2.5” lift, and the brake lines are in a lower location than OEM drums.


More to come tomorrow once I try fitting things in. Still waiting on Roxor U-bolts and spring plates, as nothing from Walcks, etc. would fit this application.


Tomorrow, test fit tie rods, strip & paint old parts, slide axle in and re-install springs, measure & procure brake lines & resolve possible tire rod issues.

 

now i'm really wishing i had $1,432

 

save up. this is smarter/faster/easier/cheaper than sourcing and regearing a dana 30

 

Just curious, what's it cost to re-gear a Dana 30?

 

all said and done, mine was 1800

 

i could get a somewhat low geared dana 44 from a scout (hopefully a series 4 ratio) for about $300

 

still doesnt include the part for disk brakes, if one wanted to got that route.

So, it appears the OEM tie rods and TRE's will fit. The new rods from Walcks are each about an inch longer than my OEM, plus the Moog TRE's have longer threads so the additional length appears to be sufficient to pair up to the wider track width of the axle. They also appear to fit the Roxor knuckle TRE holes. Ive painted the new components which are drying now. Once they are cured tomorrow I will roll the axle in and measure for brake lines. Today I am working on cleaning up the font of the frame and bumper.

 

so is the frame the same width as a cj? do you need to modify spring mounts?

 

in theory, the frame is the same. I measured the spring perches and they should fit fine.


Cleaned up the frame and springs with paint or bed liner where applicable as I had an amount of surface rust where I’d had welding done to reattach the bumper as a previous owner had cut up the frame like a clown. So I had to make mount points for the snow plow and winch. Now to let everything dry for 2 days.

 

Wow! That's an incredible deal!

 

Locally, u-bolts are made to order at the used parts yard. That's where my FLAPS sends me.

 

I’ve ordered roxor u-bolts and spring plates. $35 for everything. Hard to beat that.

Should be here any time

 

So, shes in. She fit right over the springs perfectly centered on the center spring bolt. I can't yet bolt everything down, as I still don"t have U-Bolts and spring plates, but so far as I can see, all is well.

Two issues
- OEM brake lines are too short so I'm off to FLAPS.
- Tie rods appear to be too short.

Ive roughly aligned the steering by sight. Driver side appears to be threaded in enough, about 1.5" onto both TRE's. Passenger side is only threaded 3/4". My understanding is that this is the "minimum". So....I'm thinking I should just have some tie rods fabricated, and get something a little beefier, because, why not?
Please excuse my ignorance, but where do I go for such a thing?



Fit right into the drive-shaft yoke perfectly.