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Weld-on Clevis Mounts

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by 53Flattie, May 8, 2005.

  1. 53Flattie

    53Flattie Intigator

    Ordered these from JCR Offroad (www.jcroffroad.com). Great price at $10 each. Poison Spyder and other places wanted up to $35 each. The quality is great. I had them cut down to 4", rather than the standard 5", to fit the bumper. Two for the front, and one for the rear.

    [​IMG]

    I'm not 100% sure where to put it on the back. I think this place will work the best for being able to remove the pin:

    [​IMG]

    The steel is pretty thick here, and I figured I'd also stitch-weld it to the two flat-bar straps that run along either side. What do you think? Was this the same place Dennis (Speedbuggy) had his when it ripped off? Was that b/c the steel was weak, or were there other issues?

    TIA
     
    53Flattie, May 8, 2005
    #1
  2. Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tim, IMO, you should ditch the low hanging rear hitch piece, and build a new hitch with a 2" reciever. Then buy or build a slide in clevis mount......
    Beyond that, it should work fine there......:D
    Remind me to show you mine at Tellico........ If the thing makes it there.....
     
    Patrick, May 8, 2005
    #2
  3. rocnrol

    rocnrol Member

    on the front bumpper make sure to use a "re-pad" under the clevis mount. this helps distribute the load and should stop it from ripping right out of the bummper.

    [​IMG]

    this is a repad under my tow-bar mounts.
     
    rocnrol, May 9, 2005
    #3
  4. Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    On the back, if you want to keep the drawbar setup, I think I'd run with roc's "repad" idea, but bigger and drilled to use all 6 bolts where the pintle would normally mount.

    Or not, depending on how that spot is beefed up from the backside.
     
    Boyink, May 9, 2005
    #4
  5. speedbuggy

    speedbuggy Looking for a Jeep now

    Mine would have been fine if I'd known there was a thin piece of overlay steel used as a spacer. :rofl:
     
    speedbuggy, May 9, 2005
    #5
  6. Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    SSDutch had that too:

    [​IMG]
     
    Boyink, May 9, 2005
    #6
  7. 53Flattie

    53Flattie Intigator

    Since Lulu originally had a rear-mounted tank - I don't have the V-member in the back. The drawbar is really stout right there. The top two bolts for the flatbar uprights go into an angled piece that goes under the rear cargo area. The rear seatbelts thread through this. (I don't have seatbelts back there, but that's another anchor point either way)

    As for removing the drawbar - I thought about it, but I like it's "old school" look. And, the rear shackles hang lower than it's lowest point anyway, so I've never had much of a problem with getting hung up on it.
     
    53Flattie, May 9, 2005
    #7