Oh No... Another Knuckle Pudding Thread

These prices were good in 2020 but not sure if they still are:

 

^^I bought all of the above for my museum restoration.

 

I remember the STP ad's with Andy Granetelli where they dipped a screwdriver in STP and then tried to keep the shaft from sliding through their fingers

 

Don't waste your money on STP Oil Treatment, if you think you're giving a flat tappet cam what it needs. It's better than nothing, but it doesn't even contain as much ZDDP that the older oils did, when flat tappet cams were widely used by OEMS.

This is just one source, but if you poke around the googles, there's lots of analysis from many different sources, that aren't the actual oil companies.

Engine Oil – Part 2 (Engine Oil and ZDDP) – Classic Thunderbird Club International (ctci.org)

 

Thanks for this. Appreciate it.

 

IMHO, a little thin for early engines. 30, 10/40, or 15/40 depending on climate and use.

 

This is why I wish an authoritative source would put some information out there. Something based on actual evidence. Everyone has an opinion and they are generally in conflict. The FSM calls for 10W-30, others call for something thicker or a straight weight oil. Some people say you need a high zinc oil others say the valve spring pressure isn't enough to require that. Some people say use diesel engine oil and others say that has additives that will destroy your engine. Some say valvoline VR-1 is a good high zinc oil to use and others say it doesn't have any corrosion prevention additives. My life would be easier if I could just put Pennzoil dino 10W-30 in there and call it good but I don't know if that's sufficient.

 

I personally think these F-heads would run the same if you used Amsoil or maple syrup. They’re 1930s tractor tech. Don’t overthink it.

 

maybe i'll try running maple syrup then!

 

I tend to agree.

The main issue with "modern" motor oils is the flat tappets (cam lifters) in these older engines. Modern automotive engine usually have roller lifters, instead of the flat tappets of older engines. The cheap ZDDP anti-friction additive that they used to add to motor oil contaminates catalytic convertors, and has in large part been removed. This is a real problem for high-revving muscle car engines with flat tappets and heavy valve springs. Kinda think the F134 tappets don't have enough spring pressure to matter - the engine is all done at 4000 RPM.

The "diesel oils" are popular for these flat tappet engines. Diesel engines have wrist pin loads similar to the problematic flat tappets and are formulated with other high-pressure anti-friction additives in lieu of ZDDP, if not more ZDDP. I use Shell Rotella T4 15W40 in my Jeeps, and it seems fine. Chevron Delo is also good. Widely available at a decent price (unlike the "racing oils.")
Shell Rotella® T4 Triple Protection Diesel Oil

 

The last time I looked Metal Shaper's was about $110-120 a gal. (that is the min qty.) He does ship it as well.
Has anyone used the closed knuckle lube from Tourqe King? It comes in 11 oz tubes, $8.00 ea. Not sure how many I would need for a Dana 27.

 

I used Shell Rotella ET grease in my knuckles as it has a 1.5 rating which is supposed to be close to ideal according to Moses and have had no issues or leakage by the seals at all

 

That's an extreme temperature tacky grease (as in a typical 14 oz grease gun cartridge). Unless you're talking about using it for your kingpin bearings, I would not recommend that in place of knuckle pudding.
I mean, one of its features even states it is designed not to soften up: "Improved mechanical stability to resist grease softening in vibrating environments and high-speed wheel bearings".

In most greases like that, that feature is usually a given.

 

No need to lock the hubs or find a dirt road. Just pull the big lever "In" and go for a drive on any road you like.
After all, the point is to turn the front axles and u-joints. They can't tell which end is providing the turning effort.

 

How effective would that be with an open differential?

 

In a perfect world, yes, but nothing is perfect. It doesn’t take much drag from a seal, a bearing, or from one side’s knuckle pudding to have more resistance than the other to slow that side down to a crawl while the other side spins twice as fast. I’d still recommend locking the hubs rather than just pulling the lever with an open diff.