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T14 Problems

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by georgecj6, Apr 14, 2020.

  1. georgecj6

    georgecj6 Member

    037.jpg

    Where the pin is welded to the tube for the transfer case handle, is that supposed to have a cotter pin through it on the right side?


    What is supposed to be in the holes plugged with the orange plastic caps?

    035.jpg


    The threads are broken off the trans shifter handle. Are the threads the same size as the transfer case shifter?

    013.jpg
     
  2. sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Yup cotter pin holds the shifter on. The plugs are sealing the holes for the detent for the shift rails they belong there. The shifter thread is little like 3/8 or so thread it for whatever knob you are going to run. I have a pile o shifters my boy blew a dozen t14s up. Shipping might suck.
     
  3. georgecj6

    georgecj6 Member

    The plugs are just press in plastic. They can be removed easily. They are still ok?
    Also I have searched for shifter parts and the warn hub bearings. Do you know where to find some?
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2020
  4. jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

  5. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Pretty sure the shifter is 3/8"-24 thread. Do you have a tap set? Use it to test the threads in the knob, then match that. Likely you'll have to grind down the stalk a bit to get the threads on.

    Yes, they just keep dirt off of the shift rail.

    Unlikely you will find any parts for old Warn hubs, other than salvaged from other broken hubs. The complete hubs are available new today - would not be tragic if you had to buy new ones.

    Specifically which shifter parts do you need? Looks complete and in good condition in your picture above. In most cases, you can clean the parts, lubricate the moving parts, and put it together. A little wear won't stop it from working.
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2020
  6. georgecj6

    georgecj6 Member

    037.jpg

    Somebody welded the pin to the tube that holds the shifter arm............... I need this pin (in the lower picture)............


    I noticed the "shifting lever to transfer case link" (18.180-10) in jpflat2a's parts diagram is different than mine.
    002.jpg
    I have the Jeep 1974 tech service manual. What other publication should I buy? Where can I get one with part numbers?
     
  7. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Mmm. I don't think it's realistic expecting to find that part by its part number. Anyway, it was never available separately from the tube - all one piece. The tube and pin and bracket are a 5352969, specific to the 3-speeds. I think your best route is to make a fixture to hold the pin perpendicular to the rod and weld it back. That weld was somebody's repair from when the pin came loose from the tube, I presume. Hire a welding shop if you need to.

    The 4-speed link should be longer, given the longer length of that transmission. I would not take the illustrations that literally ...

    You can buy the '74-80 Factory Parts Manual on CD-ROM. More Information for DETROIT IRON DCDC114 You can get a paper copy too, but they are considerably more expensive.
     
  8. georgecj6

    georgecj6 Member

    Thank you for the information.
     
  9. mike starck

    mike starck Member

    Early T-14 shift tower is 5/16-24 " . I have a intermediate tower that is also 5/16-24". Maybe they changed on later models.
     
  10. georgecj6

    georgecj6 Member

    The remaining thread is smaller than 3/8". So I agree it is 5/16-24 thread.

    The transfer case has a 3/8-24 thread.
     
  11. Twin2

    Twin2 not him 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    if it was me I would splice a new threaded bolt to it
    walcks sells a 5/16- 24 shift knob
     
  12. 90 degree

    90 degree New Member

    on parts for the warn hubs. i have lock-o -matic that work good. but when i got the jeep the large tab washers were almost destroyed from some hard four wheeling. they were cracked in half and bent. the washers had a bunch of holes that let you load the bearing or something and lock the locknuts, i don't remember, anyway i couldn't buy the washers with holes so i bought the washers from kaiser and some from ebay and fixed the old up enough to trace the holes onto the flat washer. drilled them. took a couple of tries, but they work fine. the washers were cheap enough