Por 15 And Other Rust Treatments

I have tried punching the hole in the top, with tape on it, storing in the fridge, helped a little still dried out. Good stuff just need to use it up.



Dave

 

I always see this stuff in woodworking catalogs. A good shot of MIG gas into the container would have the same effect.

https://www.amazon.com/Bloxygen-Pre...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

 

My spray both. Not the 3b windshield, but my 46 2A.

 

Paul at Epoxy Products suggests you fill the can with gas from your (unlit!) butane torch before sealing the top. I'd guess this would work better than MIG gas since the heavier gas would tend to pool in the can for a few moments.

 

I expect this is an issue with any MCU product. I can punch a small hole in the lid of a quart of Aluthane and squirt out what I need to a paper cup. I seal the hole with a big sheet metal screw. I can use most of the can this way over the course of months without it setting up. True, if you open the can of a MCU (POR, Rust Bullet, whatever) moisture in the air will make it set up like a plastic brick over the same time. No refrigerator for me - a refrigerator with food in it seems to me like a humid environment. I keep replacement batteries in the refrigerator, but not paint. Moisture in the air is what you want to avoid.

 

It’s not just the por type paints all of the activators used in any 2k type product go bad once the air gets them. I try to use it all by winter the fluctuation in temperature causes condensation in the can equals bad hardener.

 

My frame looks pretty similar in some spots, and I DID do all of the prep (weirdly around 1999 as well). It was garage kept until 2008, and outside on gravel until this year. When I do it again I'm just going to use regular old paint, and fluid film every few years. It'll be garage kept from now on too.

 

I divided the gallon up into Mason jars. I had one jar last a couple years. Mason jars worked good. Just threw the jars away when done

 

Seems sealed Mason Jars would work well.


Dave

 

I’ll just add my method of sealing Por-15 which works well for me. A piece of plastic kitchen wrap between the lid and the can.

 

That's exactly what I do with Chassis Saver. Seems to work well, though I've only stored cans for 3 or 4 months that way before using them up so not sure how it will work longer term than that.

 

I expect what would be even better would be to make the plastic wrap extra big and push it down to the surface of the paint. This is also a way to prevent skin from forming on pudding, for instance.

 

Ive used this Rust Converter stuff before and it works great....
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014LR5PA2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have also used evaporust for some tractor equipment I have restored, and also some other phosphoric acid treatment before painting.

Rustoleum rust converter works well also.

These are all just cheap and lazy ways to remove rust, or stop it from spreading...The best bet is to blast it or remove it mechanically...Im cheap and lazy so all of the former have been my choice. hahaha

 

I blast stuff then use an acid based rust converter to get in any pits. Then self etch, then paint. No wonder I barely get anything done.