Por 15 And Other Rust Treatments

Seems like Por15 is well liked but expensive. I used Rust Sargent on my CJ5 project. I was surprised how well it worked.
With Por15 has anyone gone straight to the treatment without the cleaner and prep/etcher? Just knock off the rust and clean w degreaser?
Good results that way?
What other options are out there that work well?

Thanks

 

I have always used Hammerite with great results..
https://www.amazon.com/HAMMERITE-SM...t=&hvlocphy=9015037&hvtargid=pla-823417896217

 

I used Por15 on my front and rear axles after just wire brushing the surface. That was 10 years ago and the finish still looks like they were just painted. They claim it doesn’t hold up to UV rays and my axles don’t get much sun exposure but I’m sold on the stuff.

 

I like Chassis Saver.

 

I would pour and swab some Ospho around in there to clean things up a bit. I'm partial to sandblasting, but it does make a mess.
I tried Por15 many years ago, and will never use it again. In areas of high humidity, like we have, moisture gets under the cured Por15, causing rust to spread under the coating.
I'm a fan of two-part epoxy. If not that, good old Rust Oleum rusty metal primer is effective and long-lasting, especially the stuff in the quart can.
-Donny

 

I've found I don't have the time or patience for stuff like POR.

But with good prep I'm a big fan of Rustoleum. Some of my quickie paint jobs have lasted decades.

 

im a cheap black paint and fluid film guy.

 

I just did the springs and drag link up on my wagon and used the kit from MasterCoat (Mastercoat Super Special All In One Chassis Kit). Will see how it turns out. I can tell you that working with the silver rust preventer part is tricky. It uses moister to cure and starts getting think in a hurry so gets brush marks, thick, etc. so I sanded between coats. The AG111 is a 2 part and it does level well. The end looks on for chassis and steering/suspension but not sure about other areas. I bet it would work well in the toll box area, just a pain to get it everywhere.

 

X2 on chassis saver, it’s thin, goes on easy and gets in the cracks. It can be applied directly over rust, just get rid of the loose stuff. It dries really hard and can be top coated or just left alone.

 

This is about the same as the Rust Sergeant stuff I’ve been using.

 

Chassis saver and Rust Encapsulator from Eastwood have worked well for me,sandblasting is better yet

 

I've been eye balling the Rust Encapsulator lately because I have a frame that needs to be dealt with but I just cant justify spending $400 to have it sandblasted when it's a trail jeep.

 

Ive used both por-15 and chassis saver and theyre very similar. Get whats cheaper.

For axle housings, skid plates, and suspension parts im fine with those but for anything else im not content until its blasted and epoxy primed. Thats just me.

 

Imho I think blasting the frame is worth it,I've always found crackes and was able to repair them before painting

 

I use Aluthane on lots of things. Very good stuff. ALUTHANE aluminum metallic paint MCU Coating Info Page

Also Aluthane MCU anti rust corrosion ALUMINUM PAINT 603-435-7199

My understanding is that these products like POR-15 and Rust Encapsulator and Rust Bullet are MCUs like Aluthane (read above link). They scavenge moisture from the painted surface when curing, and the pigment interlocks with the MCU matrix to exclude O2 and moisture.

Bought a couple of quarts of Rust Encapsulator in both the black and red oxide colors. Not impressed. Aluthane is much better - flows better, dries harder, less likely to rust through. I don't understand why POR-15 is UV sensitive requiring a top coat, and these other products are not.

 

I used rust encapsulator on my frame back in 2005. Frame still looks good after all these years. I did use Eastwood chassis black on top of it.

 

I am working on my frame now and am using epoxy. It's a three part process, but will be there in 30 years when my sons are driving the jeep. I cleaned the frame with a power washer then wire brushed it. My frame is in great condition so it did not take much to clean it up. I then applied Rust Kutter from Tractor Supply and let it sit over night, I then cleaned the framed again with a wire brush and air and wiped it down with a thinner. I then applied a two part epoxy sealer (clear lime green, but dries clear) and let it dry for a few days. I then came over that with a 2 part epoxy primer (silver in color) and I am coating this with a 2 part epoxy top coat (gloss black) this weekend. I realize that this is probably over kill, but I am going through a lot of time and money so I'm trying to do it right. The 2 part epoxy paints are a pain in the @$$ to work with and have a time limit to work with so you have to be ready to roll after you mix them. I painted it on with a brush and yeas it did leave some brush marks, but I am going to sand the outside portion of the frame before I put the top coat on so I'm thinking it's going to look nice after I apply the top coat. I also am thinning the top coat so it should not leave any brush marks. I had to buy it in gallon cans but I've been using it on other stuff around my shop and farm like tractor implements, lawn mowers, and anything I can find to use the left over paint on after I finish applying it to the frame.

 

Personally, I try to blast everything. Its probably overkill, but I have a sand blaster so that's what I use. I've never used POR-15, just Eastwood products like their rust encapsulator..

 

I also sand blast everything. I've used a lot of Eastwood products over the last 7-8 years. I have had mixed results, but they stand behind their products. Had a bad batch of extreme chassis and they sent me more than I had. I've also used por 15. It's tough stuff, easy to apply and goes a long way. I have also used two part epoxies on freshly blasted metal. Over the years I've also used just plain old tractor supply's red oxide primer on bare metal. Got to tell you, it's been on and under a lot of trailers, Jeep's and equipment, for a long time, without rust coming back. I have a couple of early five frames I had blasted, then red oxide primer, outside for years and no rust. I credit heating the metal to remove moisture prior to covering .