Cj5 Brake Light Switch

Hey guys I’m going through my brakes and I can’t figure out if this grounds out the brake wire or if it connects the positive. Could you help me out?

 

Thanks

 

Is it possible to reverse it so the switch is positive (and not burn down the vehicle)? cause my lights will not work with the grind disconnect. Only positive disconnect

 

One way is by adding a relay. The brake light switch controls the relay coil, and the relay contacts turn the lights on.

 

The brake light switch is only Positive, doesn't it just closes the positive wire to the brake lights, when the pedal is pushed? It makes no difference which way you hook it up, it is just a switch to open a wire, some switches have "T" studs, some have "Bullet" studs be sure you get the one for your harness. Good Luck

 

X2. It is a switch. As such it would be on a positive wire circuit. When pedal is applied, internal contacts are made and the switch is now on. Power is sent from this switch to the positive side of brake light. The brake light illuminates here because its other side is direct to ground through the body. In stead of what would ordinarily be a short circuit, the bulb element illuminates. The law of thermodynamics allows the short to convert to heat and light. But, I could be wrong.

 

Thank you guys. You’re all very helpful. I will be sharing my results later this week along with my metal fuel lines I’m making.

 

Before you start on fuel lines, there is an alloy that is easier to work with when making fuel or brake lines, than steel. I have seen it on our forum before, someone will chine here and help me remember what it was called, but it shapes better without kinking. Good Luck

 

https://www.amazon.com/Brake-Line-U...ocphy=9061283&hvtargid=pla-557727330710&psc=1

NiCopp is the brake line thats easy to use. I used it in my entire braking system, hydraulic clutch and fuel return line.

 

Be sure to use the correct electrical connector. The correct one completely covers the terminals thus preventing that hot wire from accidentally contacting metal items, especially those fuel lines. Good luck.

 

I have insulated “t” post connectors

 

if this is a V6 with dual master cylinder . you should have two switches
one front and one rear

 

I already started and I bought regular steel lines because that’s just what I’m used to using, I did a few brakes systems on my other Jeeps. I currently own 5 old Willys.

 

It is a dual master but it only has one switch

 

My 70 has 2 switches. One mounted beside the LF upper shock mount and the other the same as yours. V6 with dual master. Yours should be the same.

 

Update: I got all of the lights (markers, brakes, tail, head, high-b, and dash lights) working now. All the wiring is tidied up. First time everything has worked at my control. Thanks for the input guys. I’m very happy with the way it turned out. Now i just have to rebuild my front passenger brake assembly and make my other fuel lines and she’s road ready.

 

Great! The Brakes are the most important part of the restoration, I put 66 axels with 10" X 2" brakes on them, they work OK, but I am going to put 11" X 2" on the front, that I bought off the Classifieds here. I don't think it is worth going through the disc brake upgrade for my Jeep, as it only goes 60 mph, tops, and never gets in the water over the brakes. I only drive it on Fire Roads and two lane Blacktop roads in Northern Lower Michigan. Good Luck Hunter.