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Fino's 58 Wagon

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by FinoCJ, Aug 10, 2019.

  1. FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    It looked a little better before I hacked it up even more last year....just cleaned it out and left the hole....not sure it looks any better, or that I can ever make it look better but we'll see....going to leave it as is for now until we see how the engine and distributor fit is....
    [​IMG]
     
  2. neohic

    neohic Gentleman Jeepist

    I’ve seen a few firewalls made out of an old wheelbarrow to fit/set back engines. Perhaps something similar on a smaller scale? Not sure on your sheet metal fab skills, but it could be easy enough to start with a bucket, large scoop, or even an old shovel to get a shape close enough to work with.
     
    ITLKSEZ likes this.
  3. Bigdaddy13

    Bigdaddy13 Member

    No, that looks WAY better. Much better to start with cleaner edges, IMO.
     
  4. colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

    20201204_191834.jpg I looked at using a regular Saginaw box on my Willys project and didn't like how it was looking....like yours, it seemed like it would be very low. Thats how I hit upon the idea of a Scout box. It looks like its going to work out well, other than having to cut a big chunk out of the fenderwell.
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2020
    Fireball likes this.
  5. FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Any suggestions on cutting out the old motor mounts with a cut-off disk on a 4.5" grinder...other than possibly removing the brake lines first? Kind of feels like once I do this, there isn't any turning back....right now I can still put it back together the way it was....
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  6. Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    From past experience, cut close to the frame, but leave some margin. It's a lot easier to grind off the extra than weld up where you accidentally cut into the frame.
     
  7. Twin2

    Twin2 not him 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    I am just thinking
    if it worked as is
    why go through the trouble to change it
    what has changed
     
  8. johneyboy03

    johneyboy03 The green beast

    I have cut my engine mount using a saw all and a 12" blade. had to cut them so i can put my ls engine mount.
     
  9. FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    I don't own a sawzall....wondering if its worth trying to go that route?
     
    dozerjim likes this.
  10. ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    I’d go with a cutoff wheel in a grinder, but it’s just personal preference.

    Is it a lot of work to get the fenders off? It looks like a pain to work around them.
     
    ojgrsoi likes this.
  11. FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    no - at this point the fenders come off pretty easy...just don't have a good place to store them - the back of the wagon is already full of parts etc....I only have a couple days to work on stuff before departing for another 3+ weeks so don't want to leave anything too untidy.....
     
    ITLKSEZ likes this.
  12. FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Wasn't too bad with the cut-off wheel....lower front corners didn't quite have enough clearance for the 4.5" angle grinder so used my smaller air tool - its slow (no enough air flow for continuous use) but only needed an inch or so on each one....have to clean it up a bit with grinder and hopefully that will allow plenty of room for test fitting the sbc and sm465 etc...may still have to do something with the steering....one step at a time...
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  13. ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    If you’re interested in removing the remaining fragments, you can carefully cut through the top and bottom welds, then tap a chisel under it enough to get a pry bar/vice grip on it and pry them off. Welds have very little strength when peeled back on themselves.
     
    fhoehle and Fireball like this.
  14. neohic

    neohic Gentleman Jeepist

    Looking real good. (y)
     
  15. Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Things like that is why I have a plasma cutter... among other toys.
     
    Ohiowrangler likes this.
  16. Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Now all you need is some ratchet straps and 2x4s to get the new motor mounted in there.
     
  17. Jw60

    Jw60 That guy 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    I believe the current engine (283) only has front mounts that are causing packaging issues. His new engine (350) has side mounts. Also a switch from t-90 to sm465. This will let him move the drivetrain forward as needed.
     
    FinoCJ likes this.
  18. FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Well started the sm465 rebuild with mainshaft replacement....didn't make a lot of progress....
    Got the top off and cane off...
    [​IMG]

    Then spent quite awhile just trying to get the rear nut on the mainshaft off...I fully expected red loc-tite to be holding it on. Ended up having to cut into and split the nut off the shaft...
    [​IMG]

    Then ran into an issue with trying to get front and rear bearings off...my bearing splitter is not large enough...so maybe a trip to Napa tomorrow morning might solve that and progress can continue...
     
  19. shadetreetim

    shadetreetim Member 2022 Sponsor

    Good luck with the rebuild. I have a T18 I need to rebuild to put in my CJ and I'm not looking forward to it.
     
  20. FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Making progress...pulled all the bearings:
    [​IMG]

    Finally got to an empty case:
    [​IMG]

    Mainshaft:
    [​IMG]

    Countershaft and input drive shaft:
    [​IMG]

    Mainshaft disassembled (minus one bushing)...and comparison with novak shaft (right):
    [​IMG]
     
    Jw60, blalp!, ITLKSEZ and 1 other person like this.