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Fino's 58 Wagon

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by FinoCJ, Aug 10, 2019.

  1. FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Dual MC set up with remote reservoir arrived today from R&P custom 4x4...Richards new R&P business. Willwood MC with bracket to mount to frame for oem floor pedal set-up. Has remote reservoir that mounts on inner fender so it easy to check and fill fluid. Unlike the CJ the wagon doesn't have the inspection cover in the floor (and the sbc exhaust may also make access to the MC more difficult than the L6?), so this should make it easier to deal with. This MC works nicely with R&Ps disc set up with proper RPV - future project maybe, but for now I am keeping oem drums. Will hopefully start on this later this week...have DD maintenance tonight and skiing this weekend so....keep you posted.
    [​IMG]
     
    47v6 likes this.
  2. Steamboat Willys

    Steamboat Willys Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    I have the same Willwood MC setup on my CJ5. The remote reservoirs are prone to leaking. I had to repaint my firewall 2 times.
    Willwood sent me 2 sets of replacements. They both leaked as well.
    After the 3rd set of leakers, I machined a reservoir out of Aluminum.
     
  3. Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    I need one for my Super Beetle project. Has a very similar MC.
     
  4. FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Old MC out without damaging or mangling anything....probably will have some brake line bending and new fittings etc to make....and will have to figure out a brake light switch.
    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
     
    Fireball likes this.
  5. FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    slow progress...mocked up the new mounting bracket from R&P - it uses the same 2 frame mounts the OEM MC uses and the support mount on the pedal pivot - then fit the cylinder....now need to mock up the remote reservoirs which I intend to mount on the inner driver side fender?
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2020
    47v6 likes this.
  6. duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    I agree a 283 in decent shape shouldn't have a problem cruising at 3k but that's still a little more rpm than I like to run. I would absolutely go with the overdrive. IMO, with V8 power, they can't be beat. Way more useful than an OD and either 134. And if one doesn't mind shifting the T90, I wouldn't be in a hurry to swap it out either.
     
    FinoCJ likes this.
  7. FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    looking at mounting the remote reservoirs - there are two of these (one for each circuit). I kind of wanted to mount these on the inner fender, but there is no vertical mounting spot that is accessible and not really looking to fabricate up a bracket. That kind of leaves me with the firewall... thinking here:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Any suggestions or ideas?
     
  8. Fly Navy

    Fly Navy Member

    Pretty much exactly where I mounted mine.

    [​IMG]
     
    FinoCJ likes this.
  9. FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    This brake project is the project that just doesn't make much progress....
    After fitting up the MC install, it was time to work on the brake lines and figure out a brake light switch. I was thinking (hoping?) this was going to be pretty simple with just reshaping some of the ends of the brake lines by the MC, but it turns out the OEM brake line set-up was a bit surprising. There are 2 lines (different size) that come out of the junction block with the brake light switch. The small 3/16 line only goes to the front driver side. The larger 1/4 line goes around the front frame member and into a junction block by the front passenger side. One out line goes to the front passenger brake, and the other out line continues down the passenger frame rail and into another junction block at the rear axle - splitting to each rear brake. This is oem according to the FSM:
    [​IMG]

    Here is the junction block at the passenger front - the 1/4 line from the MC comes in on the left. The right out is 3/16 to the passenger front wheel cylinder, and the bottom out is 3/16 and goes to the rear brakes.
    [​IMG]

    As I want the new MC for the dual res/circuit aspect, I need the both front brakes plumbed together, and both rear brakes plumbed together. So new brakes lines it is....I am making a 3/16 line that will go from one MC res around the front (following the oem routing), but it will connect directly and only to the rear brake. Here is my initial attempt to bend it up:
    [​IMG]

    I think it came out pretty welll - just one goofy spot on the front passenger. I used a small handheld bender and zip tied as I went along to hold it to the old line to help make sure all my bends matched the original and stayed 'on-plane'. I left some room on the MC end so I can figure out that fitting when more in place. The hard part will be getting it back in place and test fitting - may have to remove the radiator (argghhh). I don't want to flare the ends until I have it just right, but I might have to flare the MC end with the line in place...

    The front circuit will be a bit more difficult - have to put a junction block (with light switch) soon after the MC, and then route the passenger line around the front as well....
     
  10. FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Sold the white wagon wheels right off the willys...I wasn't really a fan of them (although I am sure I could have painted them a better color), and they were 15x8 which I felt was a bit wide....A few months ago, I sold the 15x4.5 steelies (there were 60s era cj type wheels), so building up some cash to buy new rims....I really am looking for some 16" rims, but would consider a 15x6 or 15x7 rims if it was the right deal. 16's have a much better selection of taller, skinny tires (215/85/16 etc).

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2020
    Muzikp, Buildflycrash and txtoller like this.
  11. Dphillip

    Dphillip Member

    Great work!

    Your wagon sure reminds me of my old Willy’s pickup. The hours I spent on my back screwing around with that OEM master cylinder was unmeasurable.

    The lack of rust on your wagon is amazing!
     
  12. FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Whaddaya guys think about these wheels for the wagon? Seller only says they are chrome, 15" 5x5.5 (think he had them on an old willys p/u). I asked about wheel width and backspacing - he 'guessed' they were 15x8. Tires are 30x9.5 - so I think he might be right. He said backspacing was 4" although I think it looks like they have some negative offset (backspacing would be more like 3 inches). No hubcaps - which is fine with me (baby moons I believe). 8" is definitely not ideal, but chrome wheel with 5x5.5 is intriguing for $100. They are up in Ft Collins, which is about an hours drive away - so not exactly close enough to just go take a look.
    [​IMG]
     
  13. Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Are you looking at them for the tires more than the rims?
     
  14. FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    no - rims are the priority...i plan/willing to buy new tires for it unless for some reason i find rims with decent tires (which they don't look too good in this case)....If 15x8 rims, then 30x9.5 or 235/75/15....not my ideal choice, but trying to figure out the wheels.
     
  15. FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Some progress...I almost feel like I made rough drafts of the brake lines, and now I should completely do them again without all the little errors....
    [​IMG]
    The MC - the circuit coming from the back of the MC goes to the front brake distribution block I mounted in the frame channel. The top output goes the the front driver side drum. The other output that is empty will go around to the front passenger drum. The brake light switch will go in just above the mounting bolt. The circuit coming from the front of the MC follows the OEM routing along the front frame rail....
    [​IMG]
    It then connects to the remainder of the rear brake line. The open connection is for the front passenger brake...
    [​IMG]
     
  16. Steve's 70-5

    Steve's 70-5 Active Member

    Took the remote reservoirs off from my brake conversion and they leaked. My suggesting is to install a piece of aluminum or stainless between the reservoir and firewall. Put a lip on the bottom. Maybe that will keep any leaking brake fluid off the paint.
     
  17. melvinm

    melvinm Member

    Those are not Jeep wheels , they look like Chrysler wheels ?
     
  18. FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    I am not concerned about jeep or not - just what looks good and is functional fit...No attempt to be original in this case...think the seller just said willys in his add as they are 5x5.5...Going a different direction at this time...
     
  19. FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Brake lines finished...really hope the flare fittings seal.
    New distribution block for the front circuit. Light switch will go into block as well.[​IMG]
    Reservoirs mounted
    [​IMG]
     
    colojeepguy, Glenn and Muzikp like this.
  20. Renegade ll

    Renegade ll Member

    Man that wagon is sweet!!!! Have fun with it James.
     
    FinoCJ likes this.