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Jeep T18 Into Cj6

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by IrishCJ6, May 7, 2018.

  1. tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    The reality is that unless your sourcing NOS bearings from somewhere stateside just about all the bearings being made now are coming from India , China , Vietnam & beyond...............QC is an issue on some brands.
     
  2. IrishCJ6

    IrishCJ6 Member

    We have had a look at the gearbox again and have found a way to get the 23mm bearing to fit in place of the 20mm. It will require a little (minor) machine work but nothing major and from what we can see by the existing shadow marks on the gears will actually make the contact pattern more effective.

    This will allow us to use the better Jap bearing at both ends. I talked with Novak about the idea and according to Novak it hasn't been done before but they liked the idea and thought it was a sensible option as they too dont like the cheap Chinese bearings which out of interest are the same in their kit. Watch this space.

    On another note, what is the consensus on the U style shift pattern Dana20. This is what I have in the box/transfer setup. Any pros/cons.
     

    Attached Files:

  3. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    heavychevy likes this.
  4. IrishCJ6

    IrishCJ6 Member

    Yeah I saw same and then saw this, if you read some of the reviews it's no wonder they are not in business

    Screenshot_20180515-215635_Samsung Internet.jpg
     
  5. IrishCJ6

    IrishCJ6 Member

    Time

    I did a search for the clutch kit, picked a 75 J20 5.9l with manual. But it's given 3 different makes and they seem to differ if you go up/down a couple of years. How do I know which one will suit the T18 with 19mm pilot bearing? Below is the list of what available on Rockauto
    Screenshot_20180515-215510_Samsung Internet.jpg
     
  6. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    I would go with Luk or Sachs.

    In a previous post I looked up the tag number 5358285 and it's for a 1979 258 J-truck T-18. The bell housing is the same for a 258 or a 360; the only difference between the 258 and 360 bell and adapter should be the length of the input shaft and the use of a thicker adapter. The thick adapter moves the shifter to the rear in the V8 application, making up for the longer overall length of the inline 6 compared to the V8. I would pick parts for a '79 with a T-18 and 360.

    The pilot bushing is a 3213751 for all '74-79 10-20-40 (wagons and trucks) with manual transmission. Apparently there is no diff between 258 and V8. You need to match the pocket in the crankshaft (V8) and the pilot tip. This app should do it.

    The cover for the '74-79 10-20-40 is a 3184955. This is an 11" cover. I recall the 11" clutch will fit in the 258 or 304 applications which originally got the 10.5" clutch, but I can't tell you what the differences are in the aftermarket applications. The 258 used a 10.5" clutch in most applications, but it could have used an 11" clutch in the J20 - that application never was offered in the USA. The '74-79 360-401 plate was a 3184867. The release bearing is a 3190517.
     
    Bowbender likes this.
  7. hudsonhawk

    hudsonhawk Well-Known Member

    When I was rebuilding my T-18, I bought most of the parts from Parts Mike in California. Great place to deal with.
    Transmission
     
    zila likes this.
  8. turbogus

    turbogus Member

    Before going too far see if you can get your hands on a Tremec book;
    Bulletin No. LD18-0410-0199

    This is a very comprehensive reference with diagrams, exploded views, OE part nos. and covers more than a couple of the venerable as Väinämöinen T18
     
  9. IrishCJ6

    IrishCJ6 Member

    Update on rebuild

    I now have all the bits to rebuild the box, I managed to find a Timken bearing for the front 20mm bearing so didn't have to do any machining which I'm happy about. I must say the Chinese bearing in the kit is complete dirt and I'd say the one I removed that was rubbish already would be better than it.

    One question I have is with regards to the sealing of the front shaft. In the kit is a small black oil seal but it does not seem to fit in the snout of the bearing retainer and to be honest I don't remember seeing one when I tore the box apart. The seal I'm talking about is the one marked as "2" in the pic below

    Does anyone have any ideas here
    Screenshot_20180601-194018_Samsung Internet.jpg
     
  10. tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    If I remember it should go on the input shaft ..........the throw-out bearing collar goes over it.........seems to me they used to use just a felt seal?? Been a while though..
     
  11. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    I would expect there to be one ... but I don't remember what I found with my T-18. Pretty sure there was one. Should be a typical neoprene seal with a lip and backer spring.

    Looking at my parts book, the illustration shows no seal. However, when I look at the Tremec T-18 book (LD18-0410-0199) it shows one type with a spacer ring between the bearing retainer and the larger face of the bearing with no seal. All others have a seal.

    Why can't you take the bearing retainer off and look? If there's one there, it should be this one - More Information for TIMKEN 7412S Jeep PN 8132779.
     
  12. IrishCJ6

    IrishCJ6 Member

    That's the thing, I don't see a seal and don't remember one being there when we disassembled it either, that's why I'm asking the question. I would have thought there has to be something to stop oil draining into the bellhousing if you were at an extreme downhill incline. The seal in the kit seems to first over the first motion shaft but I can't figure out what it seats against as the snout of the bearing retainer is too small to a dept the outer diameter of the seal?
     
  13. IrishCJ6

    IrishCJ6 Member

    Bloody auto dictionary

    Accept the outer diameter
     
  14. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    I would expect the input shaft to tell. There would be a smooth shoulder with a line from the previous seal lip, if it needed a seal.

    You could post a separate question in the forum, and maybe someone with more experience will see your question in a descriptively-worded title line.
     
  15. Twin2

    Twin2 not him 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    don't know if this will help
    input seal on T18 in garage
    CAM00573.jpg
     
  16. IrishCJ6

    IrishCJ6 Member

    Yes that's what I would have expected however this is my bearing retainer, as you can see there is no where for a seal to seat
    IMG_20180602_20518.jpg

    IMG_20180602_58746.jpg
     
  17. Twin2

    Twin2 not him 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    the reverse spirals machined into housing is a early type of oil control
    you have your choice have your machined for a seal or just buy another bearing retainer
     
  18. IrishCJ6

    IrishCJ6 Member

    Or I could leave as is, as it did not look like oil ever up I to the bellhousing anyway
     
  19. EchoWars

    EchoWars Banned

    My TSM shows that type of bearing retainer, but I'd never seen one. If it works, well, it works. One less seal to worry about.
     
  20. Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

    I'm used to retainers with the reverse spiral also using a felt washer. The machined conical center of the retainer is also idicative of the felt washer. The taper helps "tighten" the felt to make it into a packing to assist in oil seepage.
    I'm not speaking about a T18 specifacally, but believe the felt seal was used on some T98 transmissions. Are you sure that bearing retainer with the reverse spiral isn't from a T98?
    -Donny