Rock Slider Ideas

I am rethinking building a pair of body mounted rock sliders for the ecj5. Much in the mode of Posi and Focker, I am thinking of something like 4"x2" (4" up on the side and 2" underwrap) angle iron and then having some sort of additional piece to provide some outward protection. Posi did a set of tube steps and both he and Focker used something like a piece of 3/4x3/4 angle iron to create a sort of triangular extension outward.

Just A Little Project
Focker's '71 CJ5 Drivable Build

I don't think I want the steps - but I do want something like the angle iron for lateral protection. Thinking maybe a piece of C-channel that is 2" high and 1" thick. 2" high would come up halfway along the 4" high sides and the 1" thickness would provide a modicum of protection without sticking out too far (aesthetic preference). I think I would be fine with 2 inches of lateral stick-out as well, but more than that I find looks a bit odd without fender flares and my narrow track with only 10.5 wide tires.

Sound reasonable?...So my question...normally these are made with at least 3/16" angle iron and I would probably use 1/8" c-channel, or should I go with 3/16 channel as well. Also wondering if the c-channel piece on the side would that add enough additional strength that I could go with 1/8" for the base angle iron? The underlap edge would be a bit iffy at 1/8" but I might figure out some spacers to go between the underwrap and bottom of the floorpan and bolt through the floor as well as the side.

 

I have definitely considered this...not sure I can precision cut the 1/4 notch out of the round with the simple tools/skills that I have. Will have to be done with a 4.5" angle grinder with cut-off disk or a die grinder with cut-off disk. I might try a prototype. Whadaya think - 1/8" angle iron with 2" diameter round tube?

 

This kind of gets to my next question: When I first attempted making these a couple years, I think I had a lot of issue with warping. It was a different design that I was trying and it had quite a bit of underlap and wanted to tie it into a body mount - so I had quite a bit of pieces welded together and it ended up with a large outward bow in the slider that I decided not to use. I did used scrap from a local drop yard and maybe stuff wasn't as straight as I thought, but either way, I am worried about making sure the new ones don't have a warping problem when I add on 2nd layer - be it the round or c-chanel.

 

yup - I tried on the last ones which were 3/16 2x6 angle. They are now scrap for brackets and and other stuff.

 

Always appreciate pics of the underside...thanks

 

Started this project again - here is what I am trying to do this time:



Using 3''x2"x3/16" angle with 1"x1"x1/8" square tube. I was originally trying to use c-channel instead of the square tube, but couldn't get the size I wanted. Ideally, I think 4"x2" angle would have been even better but again this is what I could get easily in the thickness I wanted (1/4" is too much and heavy for my use here).

I cut stuff to length and trimmed the ends of the tube so that it has a bit of a bevel in the front and rear.


I am keeping the front edge of the angle iron square and it will run up along the body panel seem - in other words I didn't try to extend it above the fender lip into the little curved area on the back of the front fender. I am cutting/shaping the rear of the angle iron to match the body curve at the end of the rocker and along the wheel well.

This set-up will cover up up along the side 3" (which i think is the minimum - would have preferred 4" I think), and only have 2" of underlap (could have gotten 3x3). With the 1" square tube I will have just over an inch of lateral extension - gives just a minimum of side protection and looks reasonably proportional to the 3" high side. Additionally, the 1" tube also leave 2" of the angle exposed above it along the side of the angle - which provides a nice, reasonably centered area to drill the mounts.


I don't have much around that I can use to help ensure things stay straight when welding and grinding - so the hi-lift jack bar got put to use to help ensure rigidity. Just tacked in a few welds today - going to do a lot of little short welds skipping around (kind of like doing thin sheet metal) and will have to keep the grinding a bit patient as well. This thickness of metal is at the top limit of my 120V lincoln welder - hopefully it doesn't have to be perfect.