Dana 27 Tie Rod Flip

James- Thanks for the offer on the Taps, I may take you up on that, I will check for DOM tube around Stockton and will let you know. I am using tie rod inserts, the way I understand it is the inserts are half the depth of the complete taper, you install the insert on the large end of the taper and the insert has a reverse taper, then you open up the small end of taper with the reamer to match the insert taper. If you just opened the small end of the taper without using an insert you would end up with a taper with half engagement.

Are the ford tie rod ends an upgrade to replacement jeep TRE's? are they the same taper as Jeep?

Thanks for all the help.

Chip.

 

Thx for the explanation. With those Ford TRE's I was able to taper the entire hole from the top and have full engagement. You'll see my pics the TRE's are all the way down in the hole after tightening the castle nut, I have a consistent taper all the way thru the knuckles and pitman. The Ford TRE's are the same taper, they are also slightly larger than what was on the Jeep tie-rod but not sure they are an upgrade.

 

The fact that the Fords are slightly larger diameter is what enabled you to recut the taper from the top, Yes?
I'm gathering parts and information to do this on my rig too.

 

James- I think the D30 has more material on the knuckle that the D27 so reaming deeper shouldn't hurt it. I did find the DOM tubing locally here in Stockton, could I arrange to use your Taps if you have both of them? I will send you a message with my information.

Chip.

 

I reamed my knuckles for the tie rod flip this weekend and it looks like I'm going to have interference with the front driver side shock using the straight tie rod ends. The passenger side tie rod fitting will work because it has a bend in it for the drag link hook up, I'm looking for a offset tie rod end or a easy way to move the shocks.




Chip.

 

I think I would try it with the tie rod physically on first, cycle it and see if it will be an issue. My D27 looked similar and was close but I had no clearance issues.
If you have to move the shocks I moved mine back a little at the frame when I put the D30 in.

 

Dangit!!! Just realized I didn't mail the taps... Be right back.

 

I found an offset tie rod end I'm going to try as an option, When I cut and tap the tie rod this weekend (thanks James, I'll send them right back to you when I'm done) I'll try the straight one and offset to see what works best. I'm looking forward to testing this setup. I'm also installing a custom steering box brace using extra tube and tie rod end with a weld on tab (pictures coming soon).

Chip.

 

Interested to see what you come up with. I also have some extra tube and was planning a steering box brace.

 

I have one that a friend put on years ago. Hard to get a pic but has held up well over the years.

 

Well I ordered a offset tie rod end from 4WD and paid extra shipping to get it by Friday and it never showed up, so yesterday I worked on the power steering box brace. I welded on a tie rod end tab to the frame and then placed a tie rod end in a tube and ran the tube to the power steering brace (not sure about this tube). I will either run DOM tube and tap one end and flatten the other to mount to the brace or finish this setup with a weld on tie rod bung. I would have gone straight to the DOM tube setup but I forgot James loaner taps at home.

More to follow, should get a lot more accomplished next week.

Chip.

 

Well, I didn't have any luck finding an offset tie rod end, the one I ordered turned out to be for a 1 ton setup. I going to install the tie rod this weekend and probably need to move the lower shock mount to get enough clearance. I sure was hoping for the offset tie rod to work.

Chip.

 

Maybe try attaching everything, cycle it and see what happens. When I still had my 27 it was close to the shocks but didn't really hit. On my D30 I had to move the shocks back a little. I ended up moving the top mount where they attach to the frame.

 

Replace the shocks with those that have just the rod covered with a boot on the lower end.

 

If there really is a clearance issue, it will still be there at full compression. I destroyed a shock and bent my tie rod once with that setup.

 

Yep...I didn't mention "and extend the bump stops too"

 

I just had my new DOM tie rod tapped at work today and will be installing this weekend to see how much interference (hopefully none) I have. If I need to move the shock it looks to me like moving the lower mount would be easier by just cutting the original mounting post off and welding a new one next to it, moving the top mount looks like a lot of work, but I might be wrong and will need to look into how it is mounted to the frame. I like the idea of the upside down shock, does anyone have a make or brand number that they have used? I have ranchos on there now.

Chip.

 

Why does it matter which end is up on a shock?

 

Here is what Monroe says:

Most modern shock absorbers utilize a twin (dual) tube construction; in order to work properly the inner of the two tubes (working chamber) should stay completely filled with oil. The outer (reserve) tube contains an oil reserve along with air or a pressurized gas. If the unit is mounted inverted (rod side down), the air or gas in the outer chamber can enter the inner working chamber, resulting in poor damping performance. Therefore, twin tube shock absorbers should not be mounted upside down (or on their side), with the exception of specially designed units that incorporate a gas cell, or cellular gas material, designed to keep the gas retained in the outer reserve tube.