Dana 25/27 Weak Points?

There was a link to an ebay sale for NOS dana 27 powerlocks not too long ago around here.
I couldnt find it, but it was like 200 bucks. That would be my vote

 

I have a 27, with a powerlock diff and manual steering (Saginaw) It is significantly more difficult to steer with the hubs locked in.

 

I have a dana 30 in mine, it is not a bolt in but heres the things needed to be addressed. Spring plates, U-bolts, front driveshaft length and universal joints depending on what one is in there, steering and brakes depending on the brakes on the donor axle. Gearing of the donor axle which in most cases will not match a factory 25 or 27. The donor axle needs to be complete including hubs and all brake components. I don't myself like to keep the factory 25/27 spring plates, they are to thin for my liking in the outer webbing once there drilled out, I made my own.

 

I’m thinking I’ll just run the 25 for now and when I come across a good deal on a 30 I’ll pick it up and plan to swap it in. I think for the majority of what I’ll be doing in the 25 will be fine.

 

Sort of a crap shoot. I blew the spiders out of the D27 in my CJ 5 (225) just backing it up to turn around. The D25 in my 3B lasted 3 decades behind 3 different small block Chevys before the short side shaft broke (Spicer shafts) and destroyed the housing while it was at it. I totally agree that if you need to replace internals, it is best to just find another complete usable axle with the right gears and swap it. Around here D25/D27's are only worth scrap price.

 

I swapped my D27 for a matching 4.88 ratio and 11" brakes with a lunchbox locker - I also got a matching rear D44 with a detroit locker and flanged axles in the deal (I think I gave about $300 total for both off of CL). Sold the lift springs that came with it for about half that. Put another $300 in bearings, shims and seals into both, gave about $100 to have the R&P setup for me on the front. All in all, I think I got a decent deal.

I'm glad my 'original' extra d27 with 4.88's in the parts pile in the back (10" brakes) is there...as well as the original D44 with power-loc. I can swap back to them and just swap out the 11" drums if I need to. I have D27 power-loc on the shelf waiting to see if I want to clean it up and install it, or just buy one of the NOS ones on e-bay for $225 (they were $150).

Keep your eyes open for CL deals, they pop up once in a while.

I missed a hub-to-hub complete D-30 w/ Disks by 15min for $150 a couple years ago.

 

Around here 44s are common but one that’s just the housing goes for $3-400. I’ll be installing a Ramsey 246 I just rebuilt tomorrow afternoon and if I have a chance I’ll pop the diff cover off and see what’s broken inside. Thanks for all the input you guys, I appreciate it.

 

I was able to use the stock ubolts and plates + muscle on the NT30 swap. The drive-shaft is tighter fit than I'd like but does work. I plan on getting a shorter one, but I have a F134.

You will need to do something with steering. I swapped to Saginaw at the same time but I think some guys get a drag link made to length (not expensive btw) and ditch the dual tie rod setup for single and crossover.

I matched gears up to 5.38. and ran a truetrac

 

I finally got around to pulling the diff cover and the gears are fine. The short side axle shaft is busted, so where’s the best place to order a replacement from?

 

I'd start with a wanted to buy ad in the classifieds here.

 

Alright, will do. Is there any difference in the axle shafts for the 25 and 27?

 

Passenger or driver side, just because of length obviously.
pretty much all parts interchange without modification except for the carrier.

 

Got any pictures of the carnage ?

 

X2!!??

 

I haven’t pulled the shaft yet, probably won’t till my next day off.

 

So I’m finally trying to pull it out and I can’t get the wheel hub off. I’ve got the spindle nut off and see nothing else holding it on. Anyone got any idea?

 

Spindle nut, lock washer, spindle nut, thrust washer and bearing.

 

The only one of those I see in there is the bearing. Do I need to pull it out before the hub will come off? And if so how do I do that?