Pre Fab Wheel Well Panels To Move Seat Back?

One of the biggest problems I have with my CJ5 is I do not fit very well in it being 6'1". I know a couple of our members have posted nice threads on how to cut the rear wheel panel, and weld in a new piece. I am not of much a welder and doubt anything I did would like as nice. Though recently a link was posted for parts by a member here, I thought I booked marked it. Just I can not find it now. It was right on the home page showing pre made panel to weld in CJ5's. Special order, I am sure they would like to be paid first. I am hoping someone noticed this also but, remembers who it was that offers this. TIA Matt

 

At first I thought I could cut out a section and just flip the cut piece 180 degrees and weld back in. Just doubt that I could get enough room for the seat without interfering with the wheel clearance. I seem to remember the post was about rebuilding an axle or transmission, and someone posted the link for genuine Dana parts here in the Northwest was the company.
I can use a die grinder/cutting wheel and should have my own welder in a few weeks or at least I know of one I can borrow.

 

This is just one of many ways to do the wheel well notch..........cut the part out with a .040 cutoff high speed wheel , slide it back 2-3 inches or whatever? weld the back up and fill in the front edges........No real concern about interfering with the rear wheel inside as where your going to cut & notch is normally tucked up in that far forward inside corner that is far enough away from the normal tire OD and since the rear wheel under compression is traveling away from the notch it does't seem to be a problem as far as hitting.

I cut this out of my CJ5 just prior to converting to a CJ6 which at that point I no longer needed the extra room behind the seat...........so I just welded it back up to where it came from.

 

I believe they are stock.

 

Encouragement, not criticism - I would suggest that making a panel to set into the hole you cut in the fender well is not difficult. I have not done it, but you could make what you need using hand tools. I have made plenty of brackets and panels using simple tools like aircraft shears, hand seamer, and punch. Once you cut out the hole to clear the seat, make a pattern from cardboard and transfer to steel. Cut out the steel with aircraft shears or tin snips. There is a You Tube video that shows you how to use aircraft shears so that you do not distort the steel. A few spot welds to hold it together and hold it in place. If you make the replacement panel, and you are not happy with it, figure out what you would do different and start over. Sheet steel is a relatively cheap material, so don't sweat it if you ruin your first attempt - it's part of learning!

If you don't have air for a cutting disk like Tarry suggests, a very fine blade in your saber saw (jig saw) will work. Blades with 32 TPI are available for these saws, and they work fine on sheet metal. Be sure to plan your cuts well, so that you don't cut through material that you'll want to reuse. You'll need to drill a 3/8" diameter hole to start your cut. A step drill works well for this. Again, plan your holes and cuts so you don't damage any part of the fender you'd want to reuse.

 

Define adequate. I suppose if I only needed to step on the gas.

 

Yes it is what it is. Add another item to the list I guess. Just for giggles could I get you to measure the steering wheel height on your stock column? Straight from where it is in the floor pan.

 

I put a Speedway Hot Rod steering column in my M38a1... They come with a quick disconnect for the steering wheel. You can order a bunch of different lengths... Mine was under a hundred bux. It went right in the factory mount on the dash, the floor needs a mount though. Here's a crappy pic, I can get a better one...

 

Ok so the steering column is a bit unique tilt and telescopic. Which means chances are I will not be able to swap the steering wheel.
I measure 15.25 from center of the dash to center of the wheel. 16.50 wheel outside 27.5 from floor with out tilt and 29 while tilted forward. These measurements are with the column out all the way. It will collapse about 2.75 inches though that will not help me. The original owner did the work while converting to power steering and there is also an issue with the length of the shaft under the hood being about a half inch short the rag joint has broken before and lost steering. Lucky for me I was only loading on a trailer that day. The column is welded on both sides to the floor mounting plate which is bolted to floor pan.

 

The seats have not aged as well as the rest of the Jeep and will need to be replace once all the other issues are resolved.

 

Chances are the rag joint was close to being correct before I did a two inch body lift. My thought is now change it to just a one inch body lift. If I go back to stock rubber I will also need to locate a stock transfer case shift arm. Or cut and weld mine again.