Knuckle Stud Upgrade....... Again?

No, I guess you could say this is an upgrade to the upgrade.

It's been twelve years since I busted my knuckle at Truckhaven and documented the stud upgrade. Well, today while in the process of adding disc brakes to the front axle I loosened those nuts. Some of the bolts ('cause we all know they're not really studs) are spinning. The lock-tite bond has broken.

So sure there are ways to finesse a blind headed bolt to prevent turning till the clamping force improves the process. But I wanted to use prevailing torque nuts and that just ain't going to happen. Besides after my attempt with the new disc brake brackets in place access is very limited. And if I'm struggling and cussing while in my own garage I can imagine what a nightmare some trail repair could become. Stand down, these knuckles are coming off.

So even though the total brake upgrade was really making some progress it's on hold while I try to solve this. First thought was to remove the knuckle and just tack weld the heads. That's for Bubba, not me. I may consider tack welding pairs of heads together with some 3/16" steel rod bend into a crescent, if there is clearance. We'll see.

Stay tuned.

 

I have done this up grade about three times on different Jeeps, I used allen head bolts, grade 8, and put them in from the back side as well as locktite, you will have to take the knuckles to someone to spot face the back so the bolts have a flat surface and space to go in.

There have been some write ups on this before?

Rick

 

I like this idea "I may consider tack welding pairs of heads together with some 3/16" steel rod bend into a crescent, if there is clearance"

 

Joe
You found them loose or they loosened up when you tried to remove them ?

 

I can't remember. Are they 3/8" or 5/16"?

You might have to go metric to get a stud small enough, but why not use wheel studs? They would press into place, would never move, and would be as strong as anything.

This link is for an M10, which is just a hair over 3/8".
Dorman Products 610-308: WHEEL STUD M10-1.25 | JEGS

 

I remember the original write up by CJ Joe - I think he discussed the option of using spindle studs from a dana 30 axle.

 

Jim, it must have been when I was removing the nuts. I can't imagine they could while being torqued down.

 

How about plow-bolts? They come in high strength grades.

A little countersinking and a tad of square hand filing…

 

This has always been a great alternative, except the price. The stud in your link is $13.99 each, there are 12 required. I just bought 3/8-24 NFx1-1/2" button heads for 60 cents each from McMaster-Carr. The new bolts I ordered are 1/4" longer to allow for the additional thickness of the new disc caliper bracket.

I removed both knuckles last night. Got everything cleaned up. The bolts should arrive today.

 

Didn't see that.

 

The studs can be purchased at O'Reilly Auto Parts for $1.99/ea. Not as cheap as the button heads but a lot less than what Jegs wants.

 

I tack welded mine..


Bubba

 

OK, Bubba wins this round. I spent a couple of evenings trying different methods but they all resulted in limiting the sweep angle. I ground the 3 & 9 o'clock heads down to about .090 and tack welded the whole bunch in. That was a whole lot faster.

Here's to Bubba