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Brake Conversions

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by SFaulken, Aug 24, 2015.

  1. Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    Sold the Jeep.
     
  2. ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

  3. Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    Ok...I didn't sell it but sure wanted to. ;)

    I totally forgot about this. I remember reading to do this and bought organic pads because I read most preferred them. I just got back from a drive and put some color and stink on the rotors. I had to lightly grind a bit off the inside pads during the install, maybe now they're "broke in"...It's better. My daughter went with me and I did a couple of hard stops and she said "Whoa, I think it's in your head Dad."

    They're at the top.
    [​IMG]

    I did the tire spin and brake with the hand test...Almost instant but not magical. I don't see how to adjust the rod without having constant pressure in the MC piston.

    What do you guys think about this question (I ordered the 10lb Wilwood yesterday) -
    Maybe the MC has the residual valve but needs a true 2lb valve to the discs and 10lb valve to the rear. I can tell you with full confidence, there are NO check valves in the new MC. I pulled the brass seats and it was just an open port. Let's say I'm wrong and there's something doing that function in the MC piston cylinder... What would be so bad about adding them anyway?
     
  4. nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    If the rp valves are not behind the tube seats they are missing and need added. Inline works fine but you want them mounted as close to the master cylinder as possible.
     
  5. Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    I'm adding the Wildwoods next week. Do you think it will help my current situation? I know it's definitely recommend for preventing fluid returning to the MC.
     
  6. nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    I can't answer that without confirming the cause of your issues, but they need installed regardless and may help. You have absolutely nothing to lose by installing the residual pressure valves. Just be careful not to overtighten and crack them as they are aluminum.
     
  7. Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    I installed both Wilwood RPV's last week and have driven the Jeep to work a couple of times. The brakes are functioning great but I think mostly due to "wearing" in the pads the more I drive it. I manipulated the brake/clutch brackets by loosening the bolts, realigning the pedal assembly in order to remove any slop. The push rod has very little free play and allows the MC piston to rest when the brakes aren't in use. Looking back I'm pretty confident I could have just kept the stock MC with the 2lb Wilwood RPV and focused more on "wearing" in the pads or upgrading the pads from the cheapest organics (I bought) to the next price range. Oh well...Despite the frustration and initial disappointment...I had fun wrenching on the Jeep.
    Now I'm bored again. meh

    New MC...Wilwoods and lines.
    [​IMG]
     
  8. nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Nice! Glad to see you got it working :)
     
  9. Personally I am leaning towards the belief that stock 9 inch drums are equal in stopping power to modern brakes IF and I mean IF someone simply added Power brake boost. I can lock up both my factory brakes systems on my cj2a and cj5 it just takes a lot of stomping power because of the NON POWER system.

    maybe the only thing that will improve your braking to what it sounds like you are looking for would be to add power braking in some form or another to your jeep
     
  10. Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    I like the peace of mind that I won't blow a wheel cylinder when in traffic and I can track straight when braking. Stopping force feels about the same.
     
  11. nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Until they overheat.
     
  12. termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

    Not knocking the fact that 9" brakes will lock up, but they require alot more maitenance to keep adjusted.

    For what its worth ive done many brake jobs where i have to work the brakes hard before they start feeling like normal
     
  13. cj6/442

    cj6/442 Sponsor

    very informative thread ,thanks
     
  14. SFaulken

    SFaulken Active Member

    So I've hit a spot that I can't seem to find any info on.

    I picked up a couple 11" drum backing plates, got a set of shoes, hardware kits, self adjusters, drums, etc from work (I work at one of the big FLAPS now (Yay for employee discounts)) and the hardware kit doesn't seem to include the E-clip for the parking brake lever to retain it to the trailing shoe (that one, I can probably sort, e-clips aren't hard to find, really), nor did it include the spring for the equalizer bar.

    Anybody have a part number on either one of these? I haven't been able to come up with anything on rock auto, in the system at work, or through googling. And I'm pretty sure that spring on the equalizer bar is pretty important.....
     
  15. SFaulken

    SFaulken Active Member

    Finally got it out of the garage today, and went for a drive. And Damn. It's like a completely different jeep when I step on the brakes. I've apparently still got a little air running around in the system somewhere, so I need to do some more bleeding, as I lost pressure twice, and had to pump them, but it stops *really* well, and I'm not having to jam my foot into the pedal so damn hard anymore.

    Edit: Oh Yeah, I should mention, this is just the Front discs, with the old 10" Rears. I should have all the parts, and get the 11" Rears on, on my next day off.
     
  16. Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    No idea on the part number...But glad you love your brakes!