How do I disconnect PTO u joint(s)?

So far, I have never had to remove a front bumper but a few years ago I removed a rear crossmember on the 3B, About 8 pieces when I was done. I went out to count the bolts on the 3B. Four to hold the bumper and eight to anchor the winch. When Koenig sold the winches they came with parts to move the bumper about 1 1/2 inches to the front so a PO must have dealt with the rivets on mine

 

I had to grind the rivets off the rear crossmember 3 years ago as it was a rusty mess and almost gone in places. A one day job and the front rivets are easier to access. Definitely bolt it all on, and while off I'll sandblast and repaint. A little rust, but still solid.

All n all this just accelerates a task I was going to do anyway: rebuild the winch. It leaks and is coated with old paint and painted on mud coated with solid greasy oily stuff. Looks ok from 6 feet but up close it needs some attention. Good news is the PTO is solid, not leaking and relatively clean. Given I was able to get the shaft off at the aft end it means no damage, so no work there. I'm positive.

Regards,
Tim

 

You could remove the rivet heads very quickly with an oxy-acetylene or plasma cutter.

 

Yes, but I don't own one and don't know anyone close who does. Not sure I can justify one for the rare time I'd use it.

Regards,
Tim

 

On the rear crossmember, I drilled out the rivets I could get to. A right angle grinder with several cutoff disks for rhe places you can't get to without taking the body off. I think the Sawzall was out there too.

 

Two hours of grinding, drilling, pounding and then a dead lift and the winch is out!



Lots to to clean up, and now that cracked spring hanger can be repaired.

Regards and and thanks for the help as always,
Tim

 

True, but in the meantime I'll be driving!

 

Been there. I had to take the whole PTO off the back of the TC because I could only get one of those original U-joint to break loose. I took the whole thing to a machine shop and they machined the u-joints off to save the forward drive shaft. At some point in the past, the carrier bearing on the engine went out and I'm sure one heck of boom could be heard because the rear drive line was bent and scored where the bearing attached. I still use that rear drive line as a 4 foot long punch around my shop

 

I got so pi%^% off I threw the whole thing out.
Super rusty and the key was impossible to dislodge.
Oh well

 

That doesn't sound too good. I hope you saved the important parts.