haven’t quit.. just sidetracked...

put the CJ6 on the trailer and am taking a step back to let the dust settle and get some long put off maint done.
have been building this up for almost 2 years...
My Rover has been nothing but a joy for the last 2 years, probably since I haven't kept up with the maintenance.
Its a fairly new rig in terms of its mechanics, but like anything that turns 40 things start leaking and creaking.
neglected for PM, not use.. They just plod along.
Its rust inhibitor system is working a bit too well right now. While I'm in there some "tiding" also needs to be done. Really hope to get this in and out in short order..

Drained the coolant at a gas station last night and dragged it home via tow rope..
Backed into garage and:

1. removed tire
2. removed hood
3. removed floor matt (all 50 lbs of it)

Would like to get engine out and on stand by Sunday...
using my usual 45 min at a time technique. (Kids napping or out of the house)

I'm sure I will get a detailed "to do" list once the motor is on a stand..





Working on the CJ6 for the past year so my mechanical photo journalism skills are peaking right now..
some of this might seem unnecessary, but I also noticed there was no good step by step write-up on doing a 2.25 RMS..
I think I might compile all this in some good order once its done for a resource.

Started Saturday when the kids went down for a nap..
able to finish it all up when my oldest woke up and he helped operate the chain fall for me..
front floor and trans tunnel removed..
Hello flywheel housing bolts.. no wobble sockets or greasy forearms





Engine disconnected and chained..
speedo cable needs to be replaced, was a bit damaged from exhaust
have a nice little setup here, and the heater keeping up well.
we have lift off and separation..





Clutch cover and disk removed, wasn't as oil saturated as I assumed...
still plan on replacing with a new unit.




Flywheel housing removed.
Didn't even have to yank the starter.



Here is the sucker... looks so innocent sitting there...
upper seal was dry, lower was soaked.. I also noticed that there was no flywheel housing oil seal (O ring)
Unsure if I forgot to install or what...
seal retainer is located behind the flywheel flange..
some bolts pulled through the notch in the crank and the seal retainer upper half is removed.
the lower half is removed with the rear bearing cap..
Need to get the motor on a stand and the oil pan off before I go any further..





My other set of hands was really excited when we pulled the motor..
had to take the front wheels off to gain a little more clearance from the body...
opened up the wheel wheels and engine compartment a little for some other misc. maintenance I plan on doing..

 

I feel your Pain............To Many Projects!

 

Good looking Rover, the wife is a nut for them.

 

Yeah pretty Rover.. Got to spend some bush time in a few of them in ZA..

 

had to make some adapters for the engine stand..
goofy narrow block bolts made it impossible to get on stand without touching the crank...
some black pipe and a cut off wheel yielded these bad boys...
plenty of room to spin the crank






Engine flopped over, oil pan removed..
Pan gasket used is much thicker than the cheap paper one I have as a replacement..
No signs of sealant being used..
Rear bearings cap came right off.. again, a slight difference in gasket material.. the T seals are neoprene, not the cork I have as "OE"
Crank looks good, no marks or scoring.. cleaning up surfaces and parts tonight..

 

nice looking beast (rover not the kid), LH shifts would take time to get use too, you getting that snow on news

 

Not here.. But buffalo getting hammered..
have 7 ft of snow on warehouse roof..
heading out there tomorrow hell or high water to start cleanup....

 

Bulkhead needed some attention..
600 grit and some brake clean, bending some metal back and new lock nuts to be installed.



Manifolds off the truck.
Figured it was out already so I would do some clean up...
Exhaust off to Jet Hot for coating, have new intake that's getting several layers of engine clear.



Got a little zealous with some left over Dynamat. Purposely didn't not do it on the inside of the truck since I have an acoustic matt. Some interweb grumblings about using asphalt paper in the engine compartment.. Have some 2000 deg heat shielding I will end up putting on the exhaust side of the motor. I don't think its going to be too much of an issue..
Passenger and Driver side foot boxes will be completely covered, bulkhead / firewall done.

 

this makes me miss working on my 6

 

Some updates spanning the last few weeks...
Truck is running and driving, plan on logging some miles before tucking this away so work on CJ6 can get back into gear...


Engine back in.. heavy lifting is over..
New flywheel and Clutch components, new blasted and cleared flywheel housing, Exhaust manifold back from JET HOT.
Amazing how difficult the flywheel cover O ring was to seat and install without squishing.
Unsure if I am going to really do EVERYTHING I was planning on doing.. its getting snowy and salty up here, need to get it into hibernation.





The long and short list as of now:
Engine:
Install Manifolds
connect exhaust
Carb/linkage/fuel lines
Coolant hoses
New Radiator or repair
Speedo cable @ Tcase
Oil pressure line / Oil filter / Oil
Clutch line (one continuous not 3 piece)
Adjust valves / Plugs / Wires
Rocker cover / Breather / oil cap
some new wiring / starter solenoid
Drivetrain:
fluid service
Dynamat transmission tunnel
Rear Axle:
Brakes
Pinion seal
Misc:
Blower motor seal
Suspension / Steering: Spring 2015
measure and weigh for new springs, order before 12/31 (Alcan)
Shocks? (OME)
rebuild steering
Winch:
Koning rebuild
Driveshaft


Right before Christmas in true British manor I stayed the course, and while caring for an infant and maintaining a home, I managed to get the Rover back running. Didn't touch or attempt everything that needs to be done, just wanted to get the beast fired up so I can put some miles on the new seals, clutch and adjust valves before I put away for winter. Motor fired right up once I got the wiring figured out..
was in such a rush to pull solenoid I didn't label wires and had to figure out how the Hi Torque starter was wired. I think I am going to swap some wires around and change how it gets power.. I currently have the trigger wire going to the solenoid on the starter.. I think I like the idea of the bypass wire and keeping the harness stock.. Would also serve are a backup if the factory Lucas solenoid ever fails.

While examining the wiring the 40 year old charging system wires are beginning to fray and crack.. unsure if the >40 amps are actually getting to the truck.. I purchased a couple years ago a Delco SI conversion bracket from Pangolin 4x4.. I think its time to upgrade.. Dropping the brackets off to get dipped and ordered a new Alt from Delco..
will need to run some new wires.. much needed upgrade..

Got the truck up and running, ran some errands and even drove it for a bit…
Considering the valves had not been adjusted it fired up on the first crank with no issue…
Once I got home I went to start the truck again and there was nothing but smoke wafting from the dash…
Started on dash removal to investigate the cause…… and this is what happened.. Needless to say I have another project to finish up before putting miles on…


Why stop there right? If I’m going to take a bite out of something might as well be a big bite…
Rear axle torn down:
Pinion seal
Brakes
Possible hub seal
Diff cover referb.





Rear end back together.... kinda-sorta..
Centric brake shoes only had adjusting rivets on 2 of the 4 shoes...
so one side is complete.. might try and throw some long pop rivets in there before I tear into the axle, again...
Hubs refreshed, packed, sealed and installed..
New brake lines are in order from flex hose to wheel cylinders. the combination of home market lines, NAS hydraulic parts and aftermarket fittings will be interesting...
Diff cover blasted and working on a couple layers of paint before install.




Pinion seal as always presented its own level of problems...
no real torque setting for pinion nut, crush sleeve is already crushed, no markings on nut or pinion since I have only done this a dozen times... whirled it on tight enough, spins free with no play...
I tried consulting the official Land Rover Field Manual for Africa incase there was some reference to some obscure unit of measure.... no luck...

It wouldn't be a project unless I was waiting on more parts....
Dash and electrical not even addressed this weekend....


Dash all buttoned up...

-Starter circuit wired to bypass the original solenoid, perfect...
new OE Land Rover switch installed and so far functioning...
-New ATC blade fuse used for blower motor switch and a few others located behind dash panel.
-New metal cowl installed in lieu of 70's era plastic.. unbelievable fit and function.. first time I wasn't scared reattaching the dash. (Rivnuts in a thin plastic shell)
-acoustic mat reinstalled after bumping garage temp up top 65 deg.. Cold rubber just doesn't like to move.
-some final dotting I's and crossing T's tonight before maiden voyage in the white stuff...

Truck starts perfectly.. still need to fill rear end and have appointment tomorrow with a customer for full brake system bleed. Swapping over to DOT5 and need to flush the MC and front calipers.

 

Wow.........Will that turned into another Project...........I know the feeling, just got to get one out of the way at a time. Looks Good!

 

picture of new dash . long project . now back to jeep

 

All done this weekend minus timing adjustments...
Got to installing the Pangolin Alt Brackets...
Fairly strait forward install, only a few "humm" moments when there were just too many bolt holes in the block to decipher what would work best.. ended up making a spacer for the adjustment arm out of a spare sun sheet spacer.. Forgot some of the timing cover bolts were 'wet' and almost started freaking that I had another something to address..


Harness arrived in SAT mail.. Nice pliable wrap, fresh wires, and all stock colors.
hacked off the factory alternator plug the second I opened the box.
Some solder, shrink and a couple new connectors, the Delco SI alternator was wired up and charging.
Picked up a Heat Shield for the 2.25 that was always missing from my motor. With the dynamat and acoustic floor cover, I wanted this primarily to help the manifolds heat up. Its locked down well, but if there is a rattle I'm sure its coming off..






Had a couple visits to the weigh scale last week before I dropped truck of for an alignment and tire rotation..
Bellow is the final weight I am building springs around:
2100 - Steer Axle
2420 - Drive Axle
This is with simulated daily load…
winch and 120 lbs in the rear load area..
Alignment and Tire rotation complete.. (swapping spares as well)
Left shop this AM for warehouse... truck misfiring horribly..
Threw the red triangle on the back and limped it back..
with all the manhandling of the spares and hood, it must have jostled the coil loose from its stock mounting location.. (ground issue) Going to use some of my Aqualu body floor cuttings and make a backing plate I can Tap onto the firewall, maybe even do a ground wire.
Drive up to Warehouse after was enjoyable.. got stuck on a hill in 2wd.. (yeah I know)
Had to get out, lock hubs and put in 4wd to move..
while in 4wd I had some fun in the parking lot...
just had to bury it in a 20 ft high snow mountain before tucking it away till the spring...
Will still get the winch, bumper, springs mounted when everything arrives, just off the road for now..

 

My other 74 needed some attention for fall driving...

Ive only been able to drive to CVS and to work, but my initial impressions are rides better & sits higher..

What I ended up with:
-Custom ALCAN springs for some degree of flex, weight capacity and ride
-RANCHO 7000 series shocks.. they are monotube with a brushed zinc coated housing.. they look sharp.
Nice firm ride for a top heavy narrow track truck
-Poly frame bushings and traditional metal/rubber in the springs.
-Military shacks in the front, standard ones in the rear..
-4* pinion shims to correct steering.. after 250 miles i'm going to alignment shop to have true readings taken.

Truck sits nice and level now.. we will see how the springs "break in" over time..
Still on the suspension to do list..
- Notch crossmember for front DS (still removed from truck)
- watch rear shocks with full load in rear.. (might have too much extension and not enough compression room)
- if this were a Jeep I would be looking for a high steer option.. anything like that in the rover world?
- throw a few tack welds on the shims to the perches..

 

Change *if* to when. The prince of darkness always strikes when you're least expecting it.

My first job bending wrenches was for a guy that imported Series Rovers. And I learned real fast that there's nothing good about Lucas electronics. We spent most of our time swapping the electrics out for AC-Delco stuff, even had our own harnesses built up by a guy, with all Delco stuff, for the rigs that had the stock harnesses all hacked up (which was most of them).

The 2.25L is good little motor, we did a *lot* of 2.3 Ford, 2.5 Mercruiser and 302 Ford conversions on them, for guys that wanted either A) Better parts availability here in the states, or B) More power.....

 

I'm sure you have read all of the jokes about Lucas electronics. A friend used to race older British cars and he could attest to many of them. My favorite is that you have to go out with a cigarette lighter at night to see if the headlights are on.

 

LED headlights and markers
Delco alt. R
Hi Trq starte
Rochester carburetor

im goodatriot:

 

FINALLY...

after a way to complicated setup and hunting down unobtainium