Just Got Myself Into A 6...

Howell still blaming ICU or 10% chance GM box

Troy (@Howell) told me how to check for fuel pulse when I get a shut down..
he even admitted it will be tough to do.. have to disconnect white wire from tach and tap with test light to + battery terminal to replicate distributor action..

I have a NOS Mopar box.. might throw that on tonight if for no other reason ****s and giggles.. with an independent ground?
I want to re route my howell "white wire" to a better place where it might not get interference from heat or RF..
what is the best underhood wire for hi temps?

hate to try this.. parts Jeeps? might try and oldie but a goodie..

 

Primary wire that is marked: UL(AWM) TEW 105C http:

Everything I do in electrical in the race car is using this type of wire...........crimped and soldered and then heat shrink added to the connection.

 

driving today and had a thought..
is the Charcoal canister (gas tank vent) getting vacuum?

tank has been less than half full since last shut down, without me changing anything
un confirmed, but if shut downs occur after fill ups, or when more than half full... all boils back down to improper vent...

Need to read some more on the CTO valve and operation. would also explain periods of high temps if EGR valve not kicking in..

I have the howell diagram, need to diagram mine and compare..

Im using a 3 port canister..

AIR
Purge
Tank

Air is capped off and I'm assuming provides fresh filtered air..
Tank, is kinda self explanatory..
Purge however.. does it get constant vacuum or?

 

Oem work as that: 1 port to the tank, i port to a ported vaccum and last one to a all time vaccum. The ported vaccum open the valve in the canisted so fuel vapor get suck by the all time vaccum.

 

Im using a GM tank, similar in size to the Jeep unit that is no longer available..
last night I filled up and confirmed I have ported vacuum from the CTO going to the EGR and Canister..

this morning, I let the Jeep warm up a bit before my commute, no issues.

 

The 1973 service manual shows the I6 using a canister with integral purge valve. Valve remains closed during low vacuum, drawing only a small amount of air through an orifice in the canister. When high vacuum is applied the intgral valve opens allowing greater air flow through canister up into the carb ported vacuum.

The V8 version does not have a purge valve because the vacuum is drawn by a eductor tube affair in the bottom of the air cleaner horn. So vacuum applied to canister is already proportioned to air flow into the engine, unlike the I6 system.

Does your canister have a purge valve on top, or is it a non-Jeep version that may rely on an external purge valve? If "purge" port is intended to lead to an external valve then you'd be sucking full-tilt on the canister even when the engine is not in a condition to accept so much air from canister. I suppose would make it very lean prior to warming up, especially on a cool morning.

 

From FSM

 

Currently,
My 2 port CTO (Ported vacuum) controls both the EGR and PURGE on my canister. (T'd the line)

The non Jeep canister I'm using only has 2 available ports.. PURGE and TANK
Manifold vacuum on the canister results in essentially a vacuum leak, and poor driving conditions

The CTO being used is 115 deg switch
last night for the first time I confirmed its actually working..
while confirming I unhooked everything and re hooked as it should be... I didn't pay much attention as to where the ported hookup was initially, but I made sure to put it on the bottom nipple of the CTO, with the accessory on the top.

I guess what I'm getting at is.. the tank is vented, at least when the coolant gets to 115 deg and there is a little bit of throttle...

im back to the wait and see what happens

 

The best it will run is with EGR disabled, manifold vacuum to distributor, canister filter not connected to engine, and tank vented to atmosphere. If you are still having trouble after that then its not related to any emissions equipment. Easy to rule out, then can reconnect after the true root cause is resolved.

Could send you my spare rebuilt carb if you pay shipping. Diagnose if related to EFI then send back. Im in PA.

 

HOPEFULLY SOLVED!!!!!

Finally had a complete failure to re start..

Engine warm:
At stop light dies.. Immediate restart
Dies a little bit down the road, hard restart
Drives rough, no restart in parking lot.

Worked out for 45 min.. went out to lot again, tried to start.. nothing.
had lunch, went outside again, status quo..
got a ride back to office, grabbed a new module off the shelf and took my MJ back to rescue CJ

CJ fired on first crank with new module, loosely grounded..
took MJ home, grabbed tools, got a ride back to CJ and all of 5 min later Job was done...

back at office with a fine running CJ..

chasing this thing for 3 months, possibly longer..

 

Keep us posted...It's nice to finally track down an intermittent problem.

 

Was that the first time you replaced that module?

 

nope.. second aftermarket unit...

first unit was a 4-5 min restart
this unit I was able to restart immediately, but finally completely failed on me..

 

with a functioning Jeep I focused some attention on the hardtop..

Started playing around with the cowl gasket this weekend and took it down with a belt sander..
I was able to get a better rake on the windshield, but might have lost some sealing ability.
I'm going to have to do a fresh seal with a scalpel and not a butcher knife..
top calls for 70 3/4" measurement for an intermediate CJ5.. I went ahead and figured 90 3/4" for a CJ6

there is still some play in the windshield to move forward or backward, so I think ill be ok here..
Doors seemed to fit ok (angle at windshield) .. hard to tell again until the top is on.

 

getting there...

 

finally got the hardtop mounted using some truck cap clamps. I think I'm going to use these vrs. drilling the top. Seems to be a nice tight fit and a fairly easy to remove.
Much like the original Meyer top a filler piece is needed to completely seal the A pillar. Seems to be an nice tight fit, can't see any daylight through the seam.
Used some shims to get proper alignment of the doors to the top. Keeping in mind there is a slid latch on the rearward side.

Took several measurements and a couple deep breaths to drill into the tub for the hinges.
overall happy with their placement and more importantly their function. Doors seal well and latch properly..
I didn't drill the other 2 holes yet, (or the driver side for the matter) I wanted to leave enough adjustment if the first car wash ends up being a bath.. Made out amazingly well with the interior map pocket to roll cage clearance...

I have some better ideas for hinges and hinge color or treatment... (body blue or galvanized steel) the cheesy black omix pieces are not doing it for me..

Need to do drivers side and work on the spare tire carrier arms..

 

It's absolutely ridiculous how nice that rig is! Every aspect of it.....and the top is just crazy! Damn....

 

Shazam! Looks amazing.